Stanley in the northwest of Tasmania is known not only for its well preserved historic colonial buildings or the rock mound known as the Nut, it is also home to a small fleet of bright red Crayfish boats.

The fleet is the backbone of the Hursey family business, which supplies wholesale seafoods as well as fresh seafood for the Hursey restaurant, take-away and fish shop. Catches include Southern Rock Lobster (Crayfish), Giant Crab, Stripey Trumpeter, Gummy Shark, Flathead and other local reef fish. The crayfish are kept live in seawater tanks ensuring supply is available year round.

Remembering a Tragedy

In 1974 James and Valerie Hursey moved to Stanley from Dover, southeast Tasmania. In 1987, to complement the growing fishing fleet, they built the commercial factory, takeaway and dining restaurant in memory of their son, Patrick, who was tragically lost at sea while attempting to rescue an adventurer rowing across Bass Strait. Today their restaurant stands on Wharf Street opposite the harbour where the Hursey’s crayfish boats can often be seen.

The Taste Test

You cannot come to this part of the world and not experience fresh crayfish, and we weren’t going to let this opportunity pass by. We had booked a table for the evening and were quickly served drinks while we decided on which of the cooking styles we would prefer; with garlic butter, saltbush butter, mornay or natural (cold) with seafood sauce. Having not tried saltbush before it was a brave decision but it was absolutely delicious even if we did have to wait an hour for our meals to be served. Just one slight issue, the restaurant had run out of potatoes to serve with the crayfish. Really? On an island that is a huge exporter of the vegetable? So, frozen french fries with veggies it was.

If you take the opportunity while in Stanley, as we did, remember the crayfish here are big. A half-large size would fill any hungry stomach.

Moving on again we headed further west with our latest stop at the Crayfish town of Stanley.

Coffee, cake and a wee spell in a Vault

Always looking for a decent coffee we stopped on our way west in the small town of Wynyard, just off the Bass Highway. Known for Table Cape, a large and imposing flat-topped rocky outcrop that is crowned with a tulip farm. Surely a spectacular view in Spring. But we had heard of an interesting and quirky coffee shop fitted out within an old bank.

The Vault Cafe Bar

Situated on the corner of Goldie Street, The Vault Cafe Bar is certainly quirky but in a great way. Recently renovated the bar is a clever take on the original style of the bank with moulded cornices, exposed brickwork and quirky walls made from stacked books, all mixed with a hefty dose of Steam Punk. But the real highlight is the original bank vault complete with the heavy vault door, gears and locks but now a WC – yes a toilet! But the internal decoration goes one better. Not just styled in full Steam Punk guise but a floor laid with thousands of old pennies that glitter under the unique and dominating chandelier. It’s simply brilliant!

But first, coffee and we’re happy to say it’s good, really good. We had been looking forward to a coffee for much of the morning and hadn’t had much luck finding a cafe along the route from Devonport. Wynyard was the last settlement that was big enough for shops and a cafe or two before we reached Stanley. We hit pay dirt and whole heartedly recommend the Vault Cafe Bar whether just for an early morning caffeine hit, lunch or takeaway.

Refreshed and caffeinated, we continued along the highway and turned-off to follow the road out towards the prominent circular rock known in more recent times as the Nut. Originally named Circular Head by British explorers George Bass and Mathew Flinders in 1798, its current nomenclature has been suggested as a shorter version of the Aboriginal name Moo-nut-ree-ker. We had reached the quaint historic beachside town of Stanley.

Hollywood Calling

Stanley is known for its well-preserved colonial buildings that line Church Street. Several of the original stores are still in use and retain the original external character. So much so, Stanley was selected as one of the locations for the 2016 film ‘The Light Between Oceans’.

Highly recommended is Providore 24 for everything from crusty sourdough bread, wines, pickles, cheeses, jams, sweets and locally made crafts to the perfect marinade for the BBQ. And for the best stop for an excellent breakfast, lunch or just a coffee and cake, try the Touchwood Cafe on Church Street. It was right here that we discovered the lightest, freshest, fluffiest, tastiest scones ever.

The Nut

Dominated by the volcanic plug, the Nut is a standout feature along the northwest coast. Once covered in trees the early settlers felled them and rolled over the edge to be used as firewood. Now a grass topped shelter for the resident population of shearwaters, also known as moon birds, that nest in underground burrows. Largely nocturnal during the breeding season, the shearwaters prefer moonless nights to help minimise predation – a wise choice when there are white-bellied sea eagles here.

An ideal vantage point, the Nut provides a 360-degree view of the Bass Straight and Stanley town 159-metres below. A steep footpath can be taken to the top or the far easier cable car, which stops at the beginning of the 40-minute circular walk. The path makes for an easy walk on a solid panelled pavement but still requires suitable footwear. It is also quite exposed at the top so warm clothing or a wind proof jacket would be recommended.

Penguins!!

Those visiting Stanley and staying overnight are in for a treat. A couple of hours after the sun has set, Fairy Penguins come ashore to roost overnight in the shrubs that line the footpath behind Stanley Cabins and Tourist Park. If you don’t spot them at first you’ll certainly hear them! We saw many over the few nights we were in Stanley including two fluffy juveniles.

Situated 56km southwest of Devonport is Leven Canyon Regional Reserve and home to the deepest limestone ravine in Tasmania – Leven Canyon.

The drive to Leven Canyon is just as captivating as the chasm itself following winding roads, through rolling hills and straddling forests beyond the motorway with Mount Roland dominating the view to the south.

On arrival we had been expecting something more developed for such a significant geological feature but we were greeted by a simple gravel parking area, good signage and a small display detailing the history of the reserve.

Two routes form part of a circular walk with two viewing decks giving clear views to the Leven River below. Joining the routes is a significant stairway comprised of 679-steps. Not for the faint hearted or those with less than average fitness, the steps are steep and winding.

Cruickshanks Lookout

We chose to follow the short upper walk first to Cruickshanks Lookout and what a great walk it was. Gentle at first interspersed with some steeper sections, the Cruickshanks Lookout walk passes through mixed woodland with plenty of shade but perhaps best walked early in the day in cooler weather as we did. The view from the lookout was worth every step to see the canyon from horizon to horizon while suspended 275-metres above the river.

Seeing the start of the steep downward stairway we decided to return by the same route to the car park before following the second path through Fern Glade.

Edge Lookout

The path to Edge Lookout begins relatively level as it passes among the tree ferns but soon begins to descend steeply on a slippery gravel path. In places a rope rail helps steady those with less than suitable footwear or weak knees. It is considerably tougher than the Cruickshanks walk on the joints but definitely the most rewarding walk from a fitness exercise perspective. The view from the overhanging platform doesn’t disappoint with an equally impressive view of the canyon below and a clear view to Cruickshanks lookout far above. Unfortunately reaching this point also means a tough walk back to the car park. Take it easy, enjoy the clear fresh air and use the slower pace to look for wild flowers and fungi growing among the undergrowth.