Yesterday we were exploring among the forests of the Tarkine but there’s more to the region and there could not be a greater contrast.

The Wild West

A substantial section of the west facing northwest coast is within the Tarkine boundary and offers just as much drama as the forests to the east.

Couta Rocks

Nothing quite prepares you for the wild and dramatic view as you climb above the dunes a few hundred metres north of the beach shacks at Couta Rocks. Crashing waves add even more drama to the windswept beach. Many of the rocks are razor-sharp and brittle so care is needed navigating your way among them.

Following the clearly defined path we rounded the dunes to be greeted by a sweeping bay with scattered driftwood, seaweed and a few poisonous Bluebottle jellyfish. Someone had built a beach shelter nearby held together with kelp seaweed but probably not the best protection from the squalls and gusting winds blowing in from the Indian Ocean. But the weather does lend itself to photography as long as you can stand your ground against the wind.

Access to Couta Rocks is along a rutted gravel road but, taken carefully among the potholes, most vehicles will have no trouble reaching the sea.

Nelson Bay

A little further north along the C214 – Temma Road is Nelson Bay. Again access by a gravel road should cause no issue for smaller 2-wheel drive vehicles but leave the caravan behind. The road terminates at a small gathering of homes overlooking the wild sea with plenty of flat ground to park. A short stroll south leads to a path to the beach and again wild seas are crashing over the rocks further out in the bay. Here erosion has created curious formations with jagged rocks standing upright and certainly capable of severe injury if you were to fall awkwardly.

It’s the kind of place you could spend hours staring out to sea, if you hadn’t frozen by then, and coincidentally someone has conveniently mounted a chair right among the rocks so you may do just that. On a calm day this would be a great place to chill but on our visit further rain was racing in from the sea and it was time to take cover.

Tomorrow we retrace our steps back to the north coast but we’ll miss the tranquility the Tarkine has given us over the past few days. We’ll always remember with great affection what a very special place in the world this is.