Bring on the Silo Art

Being a major grain supplier to the world means Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland are littered with giant grain silos. Highly visible from the road and railways and a feature of the Wheatbelt, these bland concrete structures are in need of a makeover. Time then to get the paints out.

The Silo Art Trail

After 3-months in Tasmania we’re back on the Mainland and on the trail of Silo Art. We saw our first painted grain silo back in 2017 on an edition of Australia’s TV show MasterChef. The show’s contestants faced the challenge of cooking outdoors for invited diners beneath a giant mural painted on Brim’s grain silo in country Victoria.

It started in the West

What began as a series of painted silos at CBH Northam Grain Terminal in Western Australia in 2015 soon started a trend attracting Australian and international artists to create these immense works of art across the country. And it wasn’t long before communities and regional councils realised the potential of attracting tourists to their small towns putting them on the map as a destination rather than a town to pass through on the way to somewhere else. And there began the Silo Art Trail.

Back on the Trail

During our Big Lap of Australia in 2019 we stopped at many of Western Australia’s Silo Art locations as we headed south and again after crossing the Nullarbor into South Australia. A family emergency overseas meant we had to skip the many silos of Victoria but now, heading back from Tasmania to our home in Queensland has given us the opportunity to visit many of Victoria’s silos, two in New South Wales and one in Queensland.

Silo Art – Victoria

Horsham – Although not the first silo to be painted in Victoria, Horsham Silo was the first on our trail. Painted by artist Sam Bates (aka ‘Smug’) in May 2022, it depicts the western Victorian aboriginal man, Yanggendyinanyuk, who was one of a team of 13 indigenous cricket players who formed the first Australian cricket team to tour England.

Horsham Silo – Victoria

To the left of the silo, and partly obscured by a steel fence, is another highly detailed mural by Sam Bates, this time of a Red-Tailed Black Cockatoo. Many people were unaware of the second mural and so Sam returned to paint the wall in front of the silo in May 2023 to link both murals together while giving the visitor a rare close-up view of the stunning detail of the artwork.

Red-tailed Black Cockatoo – Horsham

Murtoa – Better known for the incredible Stick Shed, Murtoa has also received the painted silo treatment by Sam Bates. Situated in the town adjacent to the railway line and a series of rusting silos, Sam’s artwork has to compete with the graffiti decorated rail cars. The painting highlights 29 species of bird that can be found in the Mallee region and a radiant bird said to represent the one in 30 Australians who experience a Bipolar condition.

Murtoa Silo by artist Sam Bates – aka ‘Smug’

Rupanyup – Next stop on the trail travelling northwards is the twin silos at Rupanyup. Here a convenient visitor shelter has been constructed opposite the silos detailing the many crops grown in the region.

Rupanyup Silo – Victoria

Created by Russian artist Julia Volchkova in 2017, Rupanyup’s twin silo artwork features local residents and sports members, Ebony Baker and Jordan Weidemann.

Sheep Hills One of the more remotely located but accessible silos is the GrainCorp Silos at Sheep Hills. Painted by mural artist Matt Adnate in 2016, it features Wergaia Elder, Uncle Ron Marks and Wotobaluk Elder, Auntie Regina Hood, looking toward the two young indigenous children, Savanah Marks and Curtly McDonald.

Sheep Hills Silo – Victoria

What sets these silos apart are the vibrant colours Matt chose, the detail in the children’s faces and the deep violet of the sunset blending into the deep-black star-trail sky.

Brim – Completed in January 2016 by Australian mural artist Guido van Helten. The GrainCorp silo in the township of Brim was the first silo to be painted in Victoria and only the second to be painted in Australia. It marked the beginning of the silo art trail of Victoria.

The murals depict four hardy, weather-beaten farmers who share the typical resilience needed to farm in the Wimmera Mallee region.

Brim Silo – Victoria

Guido, a talented mural artist, had been looking for a silo to paint and, working with the help of Juddy Roller Art Management, the owners GrainCorp and the Brim Active Community Group, Guido got the go ahead to create a mural on Brim’s silo. But the weather made the task far from easy with extreme heat, strong winds, a dust storm and lightning. Guido often took a break during the afternoons to escape the worst of the heat before returning to continue during the cooler evenings.

Rosebery Silo – Victoria

Rosebery – Created by Melbourne artist ‘Kaff-eine’ and completed in 2017, the Rosebery Silos are said to depict the region’s past, present and future. The left silo shows the future with the stylishly dressed young female sheep farmer wearing turned-down cowgirl boots, jeans and cotton work shirt. By contrast the right silo displays the current and the past with a contemporary horseman dressed in an Akubra hat, Bog boots and oilskin vest.

Lascelles – Another of the monochromatic style murals, this time in the settlement of Lascelles 26KM northeast of Hopetoun. Painted by Melbourne-based artist, Rone and completed in mid-2017. Deliberately using muted colours similar to the existing concrete so as not to distract from the environment.

Local farming couple, Geoff and Merrilyn Horman were chosen as Rone’s subjects for their family’s four generations as local farmers in Lascelles. Pictured below is just one of the two images.

Lascelles Silo – Victoria

For photographers, access to the site is difficult due to private land and the adjacent railway.

Patchewollock – Another highly detailed mural featuring local character Nick ‘Noodle’ Hulland. Painted by Brisbane artist, Fontana Magee in 2016 who had spent time in the local pub looking for a suitable subject. According to Magee, Noodle was a rugged, no-nonsense and lanky character ideally suited to the narrow 35-metre twin silos. With his squinting gaze and sun-bleached hair, Noodle was a reflection of the harsh and challenging environment of the Wimmera Mallee.

Patchewollock – Victoria

Silo Art – New South Wales

Not to be outdone New South Wales has got in on the silo painting act too and has begun commissioning artists to paint both grain silos and water towers to entice tourists and passing trade in an effort to boost the local economies.

Weethalle – Artist ‘Heesco’ completed painting the silo in July 2017 as a tribute to the agricultural heritage of the small town of Weethalle and the surrounding communities of Bland Shire.

Weethalle Silo – New South Wales

Depicting a typical farming community, Heesco’s image displays the annual task of shearing sheep, a farmer checking the grain readiness for harvest and, curiously, a small flock of sheep standing high on a balcony looking out and enjoying the view.

A dedicated car park with ample space for caravans has been provided to encourage passers-by to stop for a while.

Hay – Like many small country towns in Australia the First and Second World Wars took their toll on the young who took up arms to protect the nation and join the raging wars in Europe and the Pacific. In recognition and memory of those brave soldiers and nurses from the town of Hay in New South Wales, artist Matt Adnate was commissioned to paint five of the veterans from among the hundreds who answered the call. Those selected were Private William ‘George’ Cannon, Corporal Cliff Farlow, Private Norman Flack, Australian Army nurse, Lieutenant Lorna Margaret Whyte and indigenous soldier Private Victor George Murray. Display boards at the site tell the unique story of each of the individuals.

Hay Water Towers – New South Wales

Although water towers and not silos, the towers form part of the Australian Silo Art Trail.

Silo Art – Queensland

Yelarbon – Closer to home and the last silo on our homeward bound trip. Another of GrainCorp’s silos and one of the largest groups of painted silos. Painted in two stages between 2018 and 2020 by artists Jordache Castillejos and Jordon Bruce from the artist collective, Brightsiders along with Steve Falco of ProcreatiV.

Yelarbon Silo – Queensland

The mural is titled ‘ When the rain comes’ and depicts a young child sailing a paper boat as it crosses the nearby Yelarbon Lagoon and traverses the six smaller silos. The boat is said to have been made from old newspaper cuttings found in the town’s historic jail and symbolises the history of the region.

There’s more to come

There are many, many more painted silos across Australia and the number is set to continue in the years to come. To date we have visited just a small collection of what is surely the world’s largest outdoor gallery.

Urgent Change of Plan

Sometimes things don’t always go to plan or there are unforeseen circumstances that force a change. And so it is for us ten-months into our year long lap of Australia

Unexpected News

We had already changed our plans to avoid the heat in the north of South Australia and save the south coast of New South Wales for a later trip following the devastating fires. But today we received a message from my brother in the UK to say Mum was seriously ill. We had already planned to head over to the UK for six-weeks and had tickets booked for May followed by a week in Singapore. But now we needed to get back to Sydney, a 3-day drive, change our flight tickets, take the caravan back to secure storage and pack our bags. Now would not be a good time for our car to cause us more grief.

On Hold

So for now, our big plans are on hold, family comes first. We will continue with our Big Lap as soon as we are able but right now it’s goodbye from us for a little while. We will be back!

Port Fairy

We had been greatly looking forward to visiting Port Fairy after a previous and very enjoyable trip here twenty years ago. We loved the harbour, the beach, the design of the houses and cottages, the restaurants, but we had no idea if this delightful coastal town would still be the same after all these years. We were in for a pleasant surprise.

Welcome to Belfast

Port Fairy, of European times, was believed to have been named in 1828 by the crew of the sealing ship ‘Fairy’ under the command of Captain James Wishart. The name was in common use up until 1835 when a Whaling Station was established and later followed by a local store in 1839. However in 1843 Sydney solicitor James Atkinson purchased land in the fledgling town, drained swamps, subdivided and leased land before constructing the town’s harbour on the Moyne River. Being the town’s head honcho he decided to rename the town ‘Belfast’ after his home town in Ireland.

Port Fairy Harbour

Belfast quickly became an important transport hub with the rise of agriculture in the area and in the second half of the 19th century it was the second busiest and one of Australia’s largest ports. It provided facilities for the transport of wool, gold and wheat bound for England as well as providing support for the fishing fleet and, sadly, the needs of the whaling industry.

Curiously during this time Belfast’s port was named the Port of Port Fairy. Confused? It gets better…

What’s in a name?

The town’s grand post office opened on 1 July 1837 under the Port Fairy banner but was later changed in 1854 to match the town’s ‘official’ name of Belfast. But it was a name that wasn’t to last and it set a precedent by reverting back, in 1887, to its original name of Port Fairy. Within the same year, by an Act of Parliament, the town was officially renamed Port Fairy and, for now at least, the name remains.

Relax – it’s coffee time

Port Fairy is situated just 290KM west of Victoria’s capital Melbourne but it could be a million miles away with its relaxed easygoing lifestyle.

The high street consists of a number of quality restaurants and shops of a standard higher than you would find in many country towns. And there is no shortage of street-front cafes when you are in need of a coffee and pastry, as we often are, such as the excellent Bank St. and Co. Cafe as well as numerous ice-cream stores for those sunny days. It was one such cafe ’Le Crepe Man of Belfast’, highly recommended by the way, that roused our curiosity and lead us to researching Port Fairy’s naming history.

Today Port Fairy still hosts Victoria’s largest fishing fleet, but the elaborate grey and white stylish homes that now line the wharf are largely holiday rentals. It is a very pleasant place to take a stroll by the river and maybe stop for fish and chips at one of the new restaurants.

Holiday Homes a Plenty

Ready for Battle

A large sandbank separates the harbour from Port Fairy Bay but a footbridge provides access to the beach and numerous properties built there to take in the ocean view. A walk along the beach is a must and you may come across the Battery gun emplacement built to defend Port Fairy from the perceived Russian threat during 1886-87.

Fortunately the guns were never fired in anger but remain to this day as a reminder of the town’s past and significance on the Victoria coastline. The rusting iron of the guns and fading paint of the signs make for great photo opportunities.

There have been changes since our last visit but we still love the place. It’s peaceful outside of the school and public holidays, it’s friendly, it’s scenic, it’s nice and warm during the summer months but perhaps just a little too cool for us during the winter. 

And the property prices certainly reflect the desirability of the town. After so many months on the road with surprisingly low house prices in rural towns, it comes as a sharp reminder just how expensive housing is in popular areas of Australia.

Port Fairy is one of those places you would be happy to visit over and over again. And we probably will.

Hello Victoria!

Leaving Mount Gambier our next stop takes us out of South Australia and into Victoria – the sixth state on our Big Lap of Australia. But first we have one more place to visit.

Portland

Portland is a small, often overlooked, coastal town, which just happens to be the birthplace of the state. On the 19th of November 1834 Edward Henty landed on the shore and established the first European colony in Victoria, a year before the founding of the state’s now capital of Melbourne. Though Henty takes the credit, a whaling station was already active here in 1829.

A regular topic of many of the places we have visited has been, by nothing but coincidence, either a World first, biggest, oldest, longest, or straightest and Portland has one or two of its own. It is the only place in the World where you can cage dive with seals. Why the cage? Just to keep the sharks out! And just outside of Portland is a simple field that was once a settlement for the Gunditjmara people dating back at least 6,600-years – older than both the Pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge in England. Stone fish traps, still visible, are believed to be the oldest form of aquaculture system in the World.

The oldest story… ever?

And just recently the story repeated by the Gunditjmara people of the sudden arrival of giant ancestral creature transformed from a volcano with teeth of lava has gained credence according to new research. For many centuries the people have told of the land and trees dancing and an emerging hill formed from the forehead of this ancestral being with lava spat out through the earth. The volcano in question is Budj Bim, which is known to have erupted 37,000-years ago and aboriginal artefacts have been discovered buried in its volcanic ash deposits. It is thought likely the dancing land and trees represent the seismic activity that would have been present at the time. It is believed this is the oldest known story to exist.

Cape Nelson Lighthouse

Looking for somewhere to park the car and caravan we ended up at the huge car park adjacent to the Portland Visitor Information Centre and what a surprise we found there. Within the centre is a cafe that on first inspection served just cakes and snacks but a menu provided by the friendly waiter proved otherwise. An excellent selection of hot and cold meals and daily specials all cooked to order. And this is a cafe/restaurant that knows how to make a superb Thai green fish curry. Oh, and great views out over the harbour too.

Shine a light

But the real reason for our visit to Portland was to visit the Cape Nelson Light Station. The station sits 123-metres above the sea perched on the edge of the Cape’s cliffs. In addition to the Lighthouse, Keepers Quarters, workshops, and horse and cart stables and generator room (now a cafe), the site still has its original 1.75-metre wall wrapped 435-metres around the station to protect the keepers from the strong winds.

The 32-metre high bluestone tower was completed at the height of fears of a Russian invasion of the Pacific in 1884 and first lit on July the 7th of the same year. So fearful of an attack was the government of Portland that a large telescope was installed at the station to help sight any potential invaders. It came into use again during the First and Second World Wars looking for German and Japanese warships and aircraft.

The coast is littered with shipwrecks including those of ships just arriving from England having survived their arduous sea passage only to be smashed on the rocks just off the coast and within sight of Portland Harbour. The lighthouse couldn’t have come soon enough.

Telescope House

Built at an initial cost of £11,552, the lighthouse went through several upgrades and was one of the first in Australia to convert to an electric light powered by a pair of generators. Curiously the lens continued to be driven by a clockwork mechanism. It wasn’t until 1987 that mains power finally reached the station followed shortly by full automation and no longer needing lighthouse keepers.

The station is now open to the public and the Keepers Cottage is available to rent. Guided tours take visitors around the station and include a viewing from the lighthouse gantry out over the ocean and the waves crashing on the rocks below. The generator room and existing stable have now been converted to a cafe, which just happens to make some of the best scones we’ve tasted.