Located 16KM south of the coastal town of Cervantes in Western Australia is a remarkable and immense outcrop of stone pillars known as The Pinnacles. Just as remarkable, though, no one is quite sure how they formed.

Set within Nambung National Park, the Pinnacles Desert looks like a scene from an other-worldly Science Fiction film. Thousands of limestone pillars upto 5-metres tall stand among compacted yellow sand. Unusually for a National Park intent on preserving its heritage, this is one location you can both drive around and walk freely. There are even regular parking bays, which is a first on our trip.

Pinnacles Drive

More suited to a high-clearance 4WD vehicle than a standard car, the Pinnacles Drive leads in a winding loop around the limestone pillars, which extend over a large area of ancient sand dunes. The track is clearly marked by regularly spaced boulders and occasionally pinnacles, which provide little clearance for wider vehicles or less capable drivers as tyre marks and paint scrapes attest.

Windswept Origins

The strong winds on the West coast had initially eased a little on our visit but it was clear to see areas where the wind sweeps through the park gradually eroding the pillars into some unusual shapes. The wind is also slowly exposing further pinnacles in a cycle that has repeated many times as sand blows inland from the nearby beach. In fact the formation of the Pinnacles is closely tied to the winds common to the Western Australia coast.

During a period of abundant marine life, shells rich in lime deposited on the beach gradually broke down into fine-grained sand and subsequently blown inland forming dunes. At this point three possible theories are trying to explain how the pinnacles formed. The most probable at the moment, at least until further studies prove otherwise, suggests rain falling on the dunes leached calcium through the upper layers of sand creating a soft limestone below that, through time and with successive deposits of sand, compacted and hardened.

Subsequent periods of environmental change created soils that covered the dunes allowing plant life to flourish. The plant’s roots burrowed down into the limestone seeking moisture and creating cracks in the process. During much drier periods the wind stripped the topsoil and loose sand exposing the limestone below to the weathering effects of the seasonal winds and further eroding the cracks creating isolated pillars. The whole process taking somewhere around 80,000-years to create what we see today. Though come back a few years later and it may well have changed again with new pillars exposed and some buried under the shifting sands.

Ancient City?

Well at least that is the scientific take on the origin of the Pinnacles. Early mariners viewing from the sea believed the pinnacles were the ruins of some ancient civilisation but it wasn’t until the 1950’s that the area was truly explored. Realising the geological importance of the region the Pinnacles Desert was placed under protection with the creation of the Nambung National Park.

The Pinnacles is yet another of those photographer’s paradise locations in Western Australia and a must see on a west coast trip. The close-by beachside town of Cervantes provides camping facilities as well as motel rooms, a supermarket, newsagent, fuel and the famous Lobster Shack providing delicious seafood meals.

Situated on the Indian Ocean coast 485KM north of Perth, Kalbarri National Park is a diverse arid region with magnificent ocean cliffs, inland gorges and the Murchison River that flows into the sea at the small seaside town of Kalbarri.

Driving south on the Northwest Coastal Highway from our last camp at Denham delivered an unexpected surprise. Mulga scrub and acacia spread out over flat sandy plains with spring flowers lining the roadside gradually gives way to larger shrubs, and Spotted River Gums. The surrounding landscape starts to undulate with winding roads and then, all of a sudden, cresting a hill, there is a total and unexpected change of scenery. Gone are the Mulga plains and dense bush, the wild flowers and trees. We have suddenly arrived in the rolling hills of the Wheatbelt. It’s almost like a summer scene in England with golden fields ready for harvesting. Quite surreal.

Smelly Socks

Just as suddenly had we arrived among the fields a turn to the left took us back into the sand plains and on to Kalbarri National Park. Along much of the road wildflowers were in bloom and one in particular stood head and shoulders, literally, above the others.

Among the last in the season to flower, the White Plume Grevillia has pale cream flowers on the ends of long stalks growing from the lower grevillia shrub. A sickly sweet scent is released at dusk and in the evening to attract insects. Its common name very aptly describes its appearance and odour – ‘smelly socks’.

Our first visit into the park took us through classic Mulga territory with the occasional Grass trees and Sandplain Cypress trees standing above the acacias. Wild flowers are again dotted along the side of the road in clumps of yellow, white, orange, red and blue. It is towards the end of the wildflower season now but nature is still putting on a show.

Nature’s Window

We had planned several walks in the park and our initial destination was a rock formation known as Nature’s Window, which stands on top of a gorge wall overlooking a large bend in the partially dry Murchison River 100-metres below. From the car park a set of steps lead down to a tarmac path where you’re likely to be greeted by extremely irritating flies. It’s for good reason many people walking this trail are wearing fly nets, something we should have thought about and will keep with us in future.

The trail leads downhill through Mulga shrubs to a small lookout and rest stop with views down into the gorge and along the river. A short stroll further on and the trail becomes a scramble over striped rocky ledges formed from ancient sea floor sediments with ripples still clearly visible in many places. There are a few exposed locations with drops into the gorge that are best avoided, for obvious reasons, and a small stepped rock climb upwards and you find yourself standing right by Nature’s Window.

Weathering of the soft sandstone has created a framed rock hole with views down to the river and along the gorge. Looking quite delicate in places, it has been advised that taking a selfie within the frame is not recommended practice but people still do. And they’re most likely of the thong wearing brigade.

A loop walk continues along the edge of the gorge for 8KM but the flies were too persistent for us to carry on any further.

Kalbarri Skywalk

High up to the left overhanging the gorge are two prominences – both man made. When complete they will form cantilevered lookouts 100-metres above the river. The project, known as the Kalbarri Skywalk, was due for completion in mid-2019 but now in mid-October the $20-million project is clearly way behind and looks unlikely to open before the end of summer 2020.

Z-Bend Lookout

Our second walk, 11KM to the south, took us to the Z-Bend Lookout. A well maintained gravel track leads through the bush to a view into the gorge along a natural fault line that is responsible for the z-shaped path the Murchison River takes here.

The rock fractures caused by the fault have created an easy straight path for water to flow and erode rather than the smooth rounded bends more normally associated with rivers cut through valleys and gorges. The result is the angled changes of direction of the river and in this case taking the shape of the letter ‘Z’.

For those wanting more of a challenge, and ideally with an accompanying fly net, a nearby track leads down into the gorge and along the 6KM path known as the Four-Ways Trail.

Scorpions

Just before the lookout a display board shows a large, life-sized image of an ancient sea scorpion, a creature you wouldn’t want to step on while walking in the shallows. Beside the sign is a number of fossilised trackways created by this hand-sized crustacean and frozen in time nearly 400-million years ago.

It is believed this creature was one of the very first to transition from the sea to land at a time when plants and grasses were still to appear.

Enough with the FLIES

Having had enough of the flies we decided to head to the coast, still within Kalbarri National Park. Nine sealed roads lead to a number of easily accessible lookouts over the blustery Indian Ocean.

We started with a trip to Island Rock 16KM south of Kalbarri town, which leads to amazing views of the ocean but it is only after leaving the car and taking a short stroll along the sealed path that you get a full view of the magnificent, almost white, sandstone cliffs. These are the most dramatic cliffs we have seen in the six-months of our travels through four-States. Easily the most arresting sight so far and looking very similar to many of the rugged coastlines of the UK.

Island Rock

As its name suggests Island Rock was once part of the Tumblagood sandstone cliffs but erosion by wind and waves has undercut the rock finally isolating it to form a sea stack. While walking further along the path towards the next viewpoint I spotted a tiny dragon and managed to snap a few photographs before it dived for cover. It was a new one to us – a Mallee Military Dragon and just 6-centimetres long.

Natural Bridge

The strong wind whipping-up the sea and smashing wave after wave against the rocks makes this site all the more impressive. None more so than at Natural Bridge where the waves have eaten away at the cliff leaving a harder section of rock protruding into the sea. Over time, continuing erosion has removed rock along the base until collapsing layers have left a bridge linking the rock to the cliff. Eventually, though, the span of the bridge will collapse leaving a second Island Rock.

Snake!!

While taking photos of the the scenery I turned and noticed a sizeable and highly patterned snake cross the path into the scrub. Catherine went to take a closer look as I swapped lenses and followed. The snake was partially among the branches of a low-laying acacia but I managed to fire off a shot before it took cover further away. A beautiful looking creature but it wasn’t until the evening before we identified it – a Mulga snake, also known as a King Brown and highly dangerous.

Unlike the Brown snake the King Brown isn’t aggressive but it will defend itself when cornered. Its venom isn’t as toxic either but it is the quantity, 10-times that of the Brown snake, that does the serious damage. And neither does it give a quick bite and run instead hanging on with a chewing action to ensure the recipient receives the maximum dose.

Despite its name the King Brown is not related to the Brown snake at all, it belongs instead to the Black snake family. It has a venom of unusual qualities that is being extensively researched. Rather than aggressively attack the nervous system or the heart, the King Brown’s venom principally targets striated muscle tissue, those in the legs of most walking creatures and preventing its prey from running away. It also, like many snake venoms, causes blood cells to rupture. A second novelty are two antibacterial agents that are active against the bacteria found in its most common form of prey – amphibians and reptiles. Not only does it keep its incapacitated prey alive it is also able to protect itself from bacterial infection. Now that’s a clever bit of evolution.

Recent research into the snake venom’s antibacterial properties has shown one isolated antibacterial agent is seventy times more effective than current drugs and it is hoped this could lead to a solution for the increasingly drug resistant strains of bacteria, the so called Super Bugs.

It’s quite ironic that a creature that strikes abject fear into so many people could one day help save their lives.

Kalbarri, the National Park and the ‘must see’ spectacular coastline have been quite a surprise. Add to that the unexpected wildlife and the wild flowers that we thought we had missed being this late in the season. We still have one more walk to do later in the week and I suspect that will throw yet more surprises. We’ll also be taking our fly nets along!

After a brief stay at Exmouth we have moved across the peninsula to our latest campsite in the wilderness of Cape Range National Park at a site known as Osprey. And what a place it is just 100-metres from the turquoise Indian Ocean.

The forecast for the next few days is clear and sunny but with a stiffening wind from the southeast it wasn’t looking too promising.

Our caravan site is spacious, level and surrounded by nothing but low-level mulga scrub and an attractive post and rail fence. There’s no way you’ll be overlooked here and everyone has a view of the sea. As we’re in a National Park (permit required) there is no power or water although, unusually, there are waste bins. So for the next three nights we’ll be self sufficient.

Ningaloo Reef Marine Park

The reason for our visit to Osprey is Ningaloo Reef – a World Heritage Site – which is absolutely teaming with sea life. It is the closest and largest reef system in Australia and just a short snorkel from the beach – no boat required. Famous for its giant Whale Sharks – the largest fish in the world – it is also home to Humpback Whales, Manta Rays and three species of Turtle that all nest here during the southern hemisphere’s summer months. 

We were too late in the season for the Whale Sharks but there are certainly plenty of Humpbacks right now breaching in deeper water just off the coast. In a week or so we’ll be heading further south to Coral Bay, also close to Ningaloo Reef, where we hope to be able to see the humpback whales at a closer range and to swim with the enormous Manta Rays.

Osprey Campsite

It was quite blustery as we settled into our new location following a later than normal arrival having had our caravan serviced at Exmouth in the afternoon. So we just had a quick explore of the area and a walk along the beach as the sun started to sink towards the ocean indicating it was about time for Happy Hour.

Overnight the wind picked-up considerably and by the early hours of the morning the van was starting to shake and the awning flapping loudly enough to keep us awake. There was no change by the morning so we strapped the awning to the fence rails in the hope of keeping everything in place.

Turquoise Bay

Catherine braved the wind for a snorkel in the appropriately named Turquoise Bay spotting a Green Turtle and many species of reef fish including Sargent Majors while I was happy to keep watch on the white sandy beach.

It’s a beautiful location with shallow water but a close eye needs to be kept on the northerly current, which provides the option to drift snorkel from one end of the bay to the other. The exit point of the drift is very close to a dangerous section of the beach and with the wind and current combined, today was probably not the best day for that option.

Osprey Bay

Our local bay looked like it would provide a safer place to spend the afternoon snorkelling along the shore but the weather had other ideas and the increasing wind was creating waves even in the warm shallow waters making it difficult just wading-in, which is always a challenge with fins.

After me falling backwards and being bombarded by waves we gave in and decided to try another day in the hope that the wind drops though the forecast appears to show otherwise.

But at least the strong wind was being taken advantage of by kite surfers in Sandy Bay just a short stroll from Osprey Bay.

Enough

By our second day the wind was getting the better of us. We put the awning away to save it being torn-off and chose to view the scenery from our caravan windows instead. With so much to see in the ocean it was very frustrating!

Again the wind shook the van overnight and by the morning there were noticeably fewer people around the campsite. Even a couple in the next site to us appeared to have given up, though not surprisingly, with their tent and spent the night sat in their car.

Western Australia is well known for windy conditions, especially at this time of year, and with the wind blowing off the sea and no trees to provide shelter, camping in tents is for the well grounded, so to speak.

Sadly by our last morning at Osprey the wind hadn’t eased and it was time for us to head back to Exmouth. It was disappointing but you cannot change the weather and we still have so much more to see.

Watch Out!!

On our drive into the National Park we didn’t get the chance to drop by the Milyering Discovery Centre but we had planned to visit on our way out knowing there was coffee available. Slowing well in advance of the turn-off, a large Euro Kangaroo suddenly decided to leap out of the scrub and jump right across the road only metres in front of us. I slammed the brakes on, which, with a caravan in tow, is not the most brisk of actions, but somehow managed to slow enough to allow the Roo to continue its daredevil lifestyle. Fortunately the two vehicles behind us must have seen what was happening and hit their brakes too. That was too close for comfort and could easily have spoiled the day for all of us.

Free of wind, Osprey would be the perfect beach-side wilderness location with its warm water, sea life and turquoise sea. Sadly it was just a bit too exposed during our visit to be as enjoyable as we had hoped.

Visitor Centres

For anyone visiting Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef Marine Park, two visitor centres are a must: Ningaloo Discovery Centre in Exmouth and Milyering Discovery Centre in Cape Range National Park. And while at Milyering, grab a coffee and cake from the Pirate Van.

For more information:

Cape Range National Park

Milyering Discovery Centre

After a bad night for me with my arthritic back flaring-up, I sadly had to call-off today’s walk but Catherine and our travel buddies, Lloyd and Jill continued 58KM on tarmac and then another 50KM on a relatively smooth, comparatively speaking, unsealed road to Hamersley Gorge with just a 2KM drive into the National Park, the first half being very rough.

The geology of Hamersley Gorge is quite different to the other gorges we’ve explored in Karijini. Hamersley Gorge is comprised of very different rock formations with much thinner layers and far more contorted. Very unlike the ‘Jenga’ block formations at Dales Gorge.

After a short climb up to the gorge lookout, we made our way down the Grade 4 steep and uneven steps down into the gorge. Summoning up our courage, when then decided to tackle the Grade 5 hike to Spa Pool. Immediately we came across a 30-degree incline on a large slab of rock, thankfully, though, there were some upright rocks close by to use as hand holds. We all managed our way up and over the next few rocks to a steel ladder, which leads to the main pool.

Access to Spa Pool is easiest as a swim through the main pool during the dry season. After taking a few photos we took the plunge, rather inelegantly, into Spa Pool for a quick, and somewhat cold dip. And the easiest way out being just as inelegant with a short swim back to collect our gear perched on the rocks.

After a quick dry-off in the warm sun, we made our way back down into the gorge. While the ladder was the easy part, we were challenged again by the 30-degree slab of rock wearing wet shoes. A shimmy down on our buts cleared the obstacle without injury, though bruises may follow, and we all high five’d our completion of this confronting, though rewarding Grade 5 walk. Our reward was a climb back to ground level in time for a well earned lunch and some much needed relaxation.

Rested and armed with pool noodles we climbed our way back down the steps for a float along the river that follows the line of the gorge. Little of the river receives sunlight so the water was somewhat refreshing but it was a unique, enjoyable and worthwhile experience before returning to the car park and making our way back to our camp at Dales Gorge – Happy Hour is calling.