Tasty Bites in Toowoomba

As you will have discovered by now we like a good coffee and a new town is always a good excuse to explore. And today, here in Toowoomba, was no different… well that was the plan anyway.

We had a later start today after taking care of a few household chores and were in need of a coffee. We had already discovered a latte in this part of Queensland meant a larger than normal (for us) glass of hot milk and a weak taste of coffee. So we drove into the CBD and made use of Google’s Explore option. What came up trumps, and close, by was a cafe called Two Birds. And what a find that was.

Located on Duggan Street close to the Grand Central Shopping Centre, this lovely little cafe was hosting a seniors lunch at the time of our visit but we easily found a table in adjacent vine covered courtyard. And a quick look at the menu soon diverted us from a coffee. Today homemade mushroom soup was on offer and it was superb. Thick, creamy and with a light lemon taste, it was the best mushroom soup either of us had ever tasted. Adding to that a light, fluffy side of bread. Soup-erb!

The Lamington

While still on the subject of food, Toowoomba holds claim to the invention in 1896 of that Aussie icon – the Lamington. Almost as famous as Vegemite but in this instance far more edible.

Cream in a Lamington? What Next?

To those less familiar, the Lamington is a small rectangular, not square, chocolate and coconut coated sponge cake.

As the story goes, each year Lord and Lady Lamington would relocate to Toowoomba to escape the summer heat. But in this particular year the chef had forgotten to pack the oven Patty Pans and there was no cream in the larder to make Lord Lamington’s favourite cake – the Snowball. So, improvising, he put on his creative hat and came up with a plain sponge cake cut into rectangles, coated with chocolate and sprinkled with coconut. The Lamington’s and their guests were so enthralled with the new treat that their guests named them ‘Lord Lamington’s Cakes’.

And there was born a culinary legend… Well, that at least is one version of events.

Toowoomba Street Art

Something that led us to explore the CBD today was the laneways street art. Unlike Melbourne’s graffiti art, these are true works of art. One in particular we had wanted to see, and found by accident, was a stunning image of an Aboriginal boy. The level of detail was remarkable. Reflected in the boy’s eyes was the landscape he was viewing. Later on our trip we’re hoping to see some of the incredible silo paintings that are springing up around the country and taking large paintings to a new level.

Another chance find was an elephant painted as if the paint was still wet and dripping down the wall. There are some very talented people around here.

Where’s the coffee?

We never did find a good coffee shop although we were certain there were several around. It was just that a Gelateria shop interrupted our search and so we did the next best thing and chose an Espresso gelato. Delicious!

Land Rover Update

While trying to diagnose the cause of our Discovery 5 overheating its transmission, the recent helpful mechanic, who stopped to assist us, suggested using an infra-red temperature sensor to get a measure of the transmission radiator temperature. And it happened that I knew the electrical store, Jaycar, sold a relatively cheap but adequate device and that was our next destination, the one that revealed the Aboriginal Boy painting on the way. You see, things happen when you least expect them. At $39 the little sensor was just what we needed and will come in handy over the next few days.

A point of a view

Looking East from Picnic Point

Just to the North of the CBD is an impressive hill that tops-out at Picnic Point. Surrounded by well manicured lawns and mature trees, Picnic Point gives an awesome view of the valley stretching out to the East and the distant coast.

We noticed the sound of traffic and looked below to see a very steep and winding hill leading down into the valley. This was the Darren Lockyer Highway and the one we were due to drive on tomorrow. It looked pretty daunting from up here and we felt sure it would be quite unnerving on the road itself.

We may need to wear the brave pants tomorrow as we head for Brisbane and hopefully to some warmer nights.

Windmills and the Wollemi

Although we have had little chance to explore yet, Toowoomba has been quite a surprise. It is much larger than we had expected and certainly larger than you would assume as you drive into the city from the south as we did yesterday. We’ll be exploring more tomorrow but today we headed over to the Visitor Centre to see what is around the area. While there we got the chance to check for hills on the road to Brisbane with one of the local tour drivers  – knowing that our car doesn’t care for them too much right now. We should be okay but there is a climb at Minden, long but not too steep.

On the subject of the car, we’ve been in contact with Jaguar Land Rover throughout the day arranging to get the car back to a dealership yet again. We’re hoping to get the car over to Brisbane next week but have no idea how long it will be out of action this time or if it will end up back in Sydney with or without us. To say we are deeply disappointed is an understatement and it has been a cloud hanging over us all day. 

Windmills at Cobb & Co Museum

At least we got to walk a little today with a pleasant stroll around the very well maintained Botanic Gardens where a rare Wollemi Pine is on display – under a heavily protective cage.

The Wollemi was believed to be extinct having been around during the Jurassic period of the dinosaurs and only fossil records existed. But in 1994, in a narrow gully within the Blue Mountains National Park, living examples of the rarest of trees was discovered. And in an aid to preserve the species, propagated examples have been grown and distributed among many of the Botanical Gardens of Australia and overseas.

Opposite the Gardens is the Cobb & Co. Museum and an outdoor display of many of the windmills used to pump water from ground reserves common throughout Australia. We were lucky that a breezy day had all the sails in motion.

Cobb & Co. were pioneers in long distance transport by horse and coach throughout Australia until the motorcar and sealed roads took over. 

And here we are back to the car again! Time for a coffee.

Trouble near the Border

After a brief overnight stay, and a very cold one at that, we set off towards Toowoomba, our next stop for a few days. Taking advantage of the nearby Caltex we fuelled up ready for whatever lay ahead but, with hindsight, we should have stayed where we were. But being surrounded by places such as Stonehenge, Dundee, Diehard and Bald Nob it was time to go.

It was a varied mix of driving today along the A15 starting with kilometres of parched farmland before arriving at the big climb of the day through the twisting hills of Bolivia. It was a little challenging along the narrow road and made even narrower due to roadworks but the dramatic scenery to our left as we crossed Bolivia Hill was rewarding enough. The landscape opened out a little after the hills and followed the low point in the valley with many long, straight sections along the New England Highway before arriving in the town of Tenterfield and time for lunch.

As is becoming the norm on our trip we have another recommendation on the food front and this time it’s The Corner Cafe with its delicious cakes and hot meals. Not just a cafe though but also a clothing, footwear and gift shop – well worth an explore.

Hello Queensland!

Back on the road and some of the longest straight stretches of tarmac so far. This was the Darling Downs and we had just crossed the border into Queensland. Coincidentally it appeared the border also required properties be built on stilts. It started as a bit of a joke but more and more the houses, barns and sheds were raised off the ground. The Queensland border also marked a change of landscape and we were now being surrounded by countless orchards among rolling hills – the region producing the majority of Queensland’s apple crop from over 1-million trees. And then trouble struck yet again.

Once more and for no apparent reason our car decided to choose the start of a moderate hill climb to go into ‘Restricted Performance Mode’ and just after we had overtaken a crawling truck. Again no prior warning. We managed to limp to the top of the hill and continue to a safe point to pull over. Our old issue was back and it looked like the transmission temperature again. After restarting the engine, though, we managed to drive into Warwick and parked up to let the transmission cool down. It was also a good opportunity for a wander around the CBD and take a coffee break though, this time, nothing to recommend.

We had been stopped for over an hour but that was clearly not enough for the car to do what it was designed to do and just 24-KM later we were stopped again with the same Restricted Performance Mode. This time, however, a local mechanic kindly stopped to assist and made a point of the transmission radiator being much hotter than it should. By comparison the engine coolant radiator was cool to the touch. We were concerned with the failing daylight and really needed to get to Toowoomba before dark, if it was possible, to avoid the wildlife straying onto the road. Fortunately a 30-minute stop to cool appeared to be enough and we made it to our caravan site 54-KM later and just before the sun set.

Needless to say we have now lost any remaining confidence in this car, a vehicle designed to tow up to 3.5-tonnes that cannot cope towing our 2.8-tonne caravan. At this point in time we could never recommend anyone buy a Land Rover Discovery 5. It simply is not worth the anxiety and stress knowing your very expensive car could let you down at anytime without warning. Back to Jaguar Land Rover… yet again.  

At least this time, after 4-weeks on the road, we got to do a 90-degree park… and nailed it first time!

Scaling the Moonbi’s

We’re on the move again after four lovely days with friends in Kootingal and heading for an overnight stop at Glen Innes, the self proclaimed Celtic capital of Australia.

After refuelling our first challenge was to scale the Moonbi’s – a high range of hills and a dual-stage steep climb out of the Tamworth valley. We we’re a little apprehensive after one of the guides at the Dubbo Information Centre said it was quite a tough climb, especially with a caravan in tow, but fortunately it was nowhere near as bad as we had been led to believe and we were soon over the top and descending down into a comparatively lush valley.


An interesting drive compared to those of late with a winding road following up and down hills before levelling out at the town of Urulla, which was a good place to stop for lunch. You will have got the idea by now that we enjoy looking out for good coffee shops and, of course, today was no different with the Pie Mechanic being our choice of the day. And we weren’t disappointed – excellent coffee, toasties, roasted carrot and feta roll and a cherry custard tart. Give it a try, you won’t find better in town.


Our final leg took us through more farmland lined with poplar trees glowing yellow in the afternoon sun. Good roads, small hills, great views and little traffic and we were soon pulling into our overnight stop.


Glen Innes


Depending on how you look at it we were fortunate to have just missed the Glen Innes Celtic Festival, which took place over the weekend. It’s a big event drawing large crowds to see everything Scottish and centred around the Celtic Standing Stones. Having come from a country with genuine, ancient stone circles I have to view this one with a little smile, may be even feeling a little smug. It’s perhaps best that you make your own decision on this one but leaving the bore holes from the drill used to extract the rock still visible is a little questionable.


The town itself has a long, wide main street with many old buildings lining the road but spoilt a little by the bright colours of Mitre 10 and the relatively modern Woolworths supermarket.

Glen Innes – Main Street

It looks as though we’re in for a cold night again with the temperature expected to fall to 4C. At least we now have the gas heater working and we can look forward to warmer nights as we head towards Queensland tomorrow.

Great times in Kootingal

This weekend we are visiting friends in Kootingal just to the northeast of Tamworth – The Country Music Capital of Australia.

We made a brief visit to the Tamworth Country Music Hall of Fame, which displays the long history of Australian country music but there was surprisingly little for more recent artists such as the hugely popular Keith Urban. It was also looking quite dated and for such a major music capital it deserves better.


Just a short stroll away is the main street of Tamworth and the usual shops, cafes and supermarkets common to most of the country towns that we have visited so far. It was a good opportunity for me to get a flu jab while for Catherine an absentee vote was in order for the federal elections coming up soon.


Kootingal is a farming community and, like much of New England, is still suffering the effects of drought. Hopefully the overnight rain on Friday will help and signal the arrival of more rain to follow
.

Kootingal Countryside

An early morning walk by the river was a good reason to rise on Saturday and fortunately the rain had cleared. We followed the path of the well attended Tamworth Park Run held each week. And of course our treat was breakfast and coffee at the Hopscotch cafe by the river.

Another early start on Sunday saw us at the Tamworth Marsupial Park, not just an excellent place to take the children with its own playground but also educational for all ages. It’s a lovely spot in a narrow valley surrounded by trees with the only noise coming from the many native birds on display, especially the Sulphur Crested Cockatoos and their many spoken phrases. And not just a ‘Hello’ but ‘Who are you?” and “What are you doing?”. Even a Galah got in on the act.


Of course it wouldn’t be a good weekend without a good pub lunch with friends. It also happened to coincide with a very well attended village market at Currabubula, many of who also had the same idea as us to drop into the local pub for a beer and a bite to eat.