After a brief stay at Exmouth we have moved across the peninsula to our latest campsite in the wilderness of Cape Range National Park at a site known as Osprey. And what a place it is just 100-metres from the turquoise Indian Ocean.

The forecast for the next few days is clear and sunny but with a stiffening wind from the southeast it wasn’t looking too promising.

Our caravan site is spacious, level and surrounded by nothing but low-level mulga scrub and an attractive post and rail fence. There’s no way you’ll be overlooked here and everyone has a view of the sea. As we’re in a National Park (permit required) there is no power or water although, unusually, there are waste bins. So for the next three nights we’ll be self sufficient.

Ningaloo Reef Marine Park

The reason for our visit to Osprey is Ningaloo Reef – a World Heritage Site – which is absolutely teaming with sea life. It is the closest and largest reef system in Australia and just a short snorkel from the beach – no boat required. Famous for its giant Whale Sharks – the largest fish in the world – it is also home to Humpback Whales, Manta Rays and three species of Turtle that all nest here during the southern hemisphere’s summer months. 

We were too late in the season for the Whale Sharks but there are certainly plenty of Humpbacks right now breaching in deeper water just off the coast. In a week or so we’ll be heading further south to Coral Bay, also close to Ningaloo Reef, where we hope to be able to see the humpback whales at a closer range and to swim with the enormous Manta Rays.

Osprey Campsite

It was quite blustery as we settled into our new location following a later than normal arrival having had our caravan serviced at Exmouth in the afternoon. So we just had a quick explore of the area and a walk along the beach as the sun started to sink towards the ocean indicating it was about time for Happy Hour.

Overnight the wind picked-up considerably and by the early hours of the morning the van was starting to shake and the awning flapping loudly enough to keep us awake. There was no change by the morning so we strapped the awning to the fence rails in the hope of keeping everything in place.

Turquoise Bay

Catherine braved the wind for a snorkel in the appropriately named Turquoise Bay spotting a Green Turtle and many species of reef fish including Sargent Majors while I was happy to keep watch on the white sandy beach.

It’s a beautiful location with shallow water but a close eye needs to be kept on the northerly current, which provides the option to drift snorkel from one end of the bay to the other. The exit point of the drift is very close to a dangerous section of the beach and with the wind and current combined, today was probably not the best day for that option.

Osprey Bay

Our local bay looked like it would provide a safer place to spend the afternoon snorkelling along the shore but the weather had other ideas and the increasing wind was creating waves even in the warm shallow waters making it difficult just wading-in, which is always a challenge with fins.

After me falling backwards and being bombarded by waves we gave in and decided to try another day in the hope that the wind drops though the forecast appears to show otherwise.

But at least the strong wind was being taken advantage of by kite surfers in Sandy Bay just a short stroll from Osprey Bay.

Enough

By our second day the wind was getting the better of us. We put the awning away to save it being torn-off and chose to view the scenery from our caravan windows instead. With so much to see in the ocean it was very frustrating!

Again the wind shook the van overnight and by the morning there were noticeably fewer people around the campsite. Even a couple in the next site to us appeared to have given up, though not surprisingly, with their tent and spent the night sat in their car.

Western Australia is well known for windy conditions, especially at this time of year, and with the wind blowing off the sea and no trees to provide shelter, camping in tents is for the well grounded, so to speak.

Sadly by our last morning at Osprey the wind hadn’t eased and it was time for us to head back to Exmouth. It was disappointing but you cannot change the weather and we still have so much more to see.

Watch Out!!

On our drive into the National Park we didn’t get the chance to drop by the Milyering Discovery Centre but we had planned to visit on our way out knowing there was coffee available. Slowing well in advance of the turn-off, a large Euro Kangaroo suddenly decided to leap out of the scrub and jump right across the road only metres in front of us. I slammed the brakes on, which, with a caravan in tow, is not the most brisk of actions, but somehow managed to slow enough to allow the Roo to continue its daredevil lifestyle. Fortunately the two vehicles behind us must have seen what was happening and hit their brakes too. That was too close for comfort and could easily have spoiled the day for all of us.

Free of wind, Osprey would be the perfect beach-side wilderness location with its warm water, sea life and turquoise sea. Sadly it was just a bit too exposed during our visit to be as enjoyable as we had hoped.

Visitor Centres

For anyone visiting Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef Marine Park, two visitor centres are a must: Ningaloo Discovery Centre in Exmouth and Milyering Discovery Centre in Cape Range National Park. And while at Milyering, grab a coffee and cake from the Pirate Van.

For more information:

Cape Range National Park

Milyering Discovery Centre

After a bad night for me with my arthritic back flaring-up, I sadly had to call-off today’s walk but Catherine and our travel buddies, Lloyd and Jill continued 58KM on tarmac and then another 50KM on a relatively smooth, comparatively speaking, unsealed road to Hamersley Gorge with just a 2KM drive into the National Park, the first half being very rough.

The geology of Hamersley Gorge is quite different to the other gorges we’ve explored in Karijini. Hamersley Gorge is comprised of very different rock formations with much thinner layers and far more contorted. Very unlike the ‘Jenga’ block formations at Dales Gorge.

After a short climb up to the gorge lookout, we made our way down the Grade 4 steep and uneven steps down into the gorge. Summoning up our courage, when then decided to tackle the Grade 5 hike to Spa Pool. Immediately we came across a 30-degree incline on a large slab of rock, thankfully, though, there were some upright rocks close by to use as hand holds. We all managed our way up and over the next few rocks to a steel ladder, which leads to the main pool.

Access to Spa Pool is easiest as a swim through the main pool during the dry season. After taking a few photos we took the plunge, rather inelegantly, into Spa Pool for a quick, and somewhat cold dip. And the easiest way out being just as inelegant with a short swim back to collect our gear perched on the rocks.

After a quick dry-off in the warm sun, we made our way back down into the gorge. While the ladder was the easy part, we were challenged again by the 30-degree slab of rock wearing wet shoes. A shimmy down on our buts cleared the obstacle without injury, though bruises may follow, and we all high five’d our completion of this confronting, though rewarding Grade 5 walk. Our reward was a climb back to ground level in time for a well earned lunch and some much needed relaxation.

Rested and armed with pool noodles we climbed our way back down the steps for a float along the river that follows the line of the gorge. Little of the river receives sunlight so the water was somewhat refreshing but it was a unique, enjoyable and worthwhile experience before returning to the car park and making our way back to our camp at Dales Gorge – Happy Hour is calling.

The last walk of our Dales Gorge visit was an extension of our first walk to Fortescue Falls but this time negotiating the 286-steps was a one way trip. But it did mean we had to traverse the falls, which meant clambering down the rock face on the dry side. Dry being a temporary feature towards the end of the dry season, during the Wet the falls are a raging torrent entirely submerging the rock we climbed on.

Much less of a challenge was crossing the pool where the water from the falls narrows and heads downstream. Loose and slippery stepping stones adds some entertainment and tests the balance but the worst that could happen is you slip into shallow water losing your pride and gaining a few bruises in the process.

The walk continues through a mix of paperbark and spotted river gums, grasses and impressive views of the surrounding slabs of rock stacked precariously above. It looks as if a sneeze could cause some of these to topple but one spot in particular demonstrates just how secure some of these rock walls are – at least for the moment.

One very, very slender column of rock is holding up an enormous weight of sandstone above it though for how much longer is anyone’s guess. Just one tap from a hammer would see this structure collapse bringing down thousands of tonnes of iron-rich rock. Though being warned to the contrary, many choose to stand where the column frames the gap against the rock wall for a selfie. Again, natural selection will one day take its course on the stupid.

The walk includes many pools and small waterfalls along the way some providing further challenges and sometimes requiring stepping stones or a scramble along the rock wall. It’s a very peaceful and relaxing place and a great pleasure to be surrounded by so much greenery. Each of the gorges creates its own microcosm with often rare or unique plants and the benefit of water clearly shows. it is such a contrast to the red, dry and dusty desert with have been travelling through for many weeks now.

Now, far below the Circular Pool Lookout, the path becomes a little more of a scramble over rocks, rock slabs and boulders. As such this section of the walk is designated a Grade 4 out of 5. Despite the warnings to wear appropriate footwear  the thong wearers still aren’t deterred. Not only do they put themselves at risk but also those that have to rescue them – many of them volunteers.

Mind where you step

Just yesterday on this very walk a person was bitten by a snake, believed to be non-venomous, and had to be extracted by a team of rescuers and medics up a very steep pathway to a waiting ambulance. Death Adders and King Brown snakes both populate these gorges and surrounds and thongs offer absolutely no resistance to needle-sharp fangs.

We paused for a while looking at the delicately balanced rocks above and around us. Obviously these rocks eventually part and crash to the ground but it is amazing how they appear to hang on that little bit longer in the most unlikely positions. The park rangers have seen where new rock falls have taken place but none have ever witnessed them tumble. As you walk below many of the overhangs you have to wonder just how soon someone is going to get a piece of landscape heading in their direction.

Finally, and quite suddenly, we reached our destination of Circular Pool to be greeted by a small group of people, some who had braved the cold water already and a few about to take a dip. Circular Pool, like Handrail Pool, was created by the action of water during the wet season and abrasion from swirling rocks and boulders to produce a near perfect circular hole in the ground over 100-metres deep.

Even now during the dry season water flows into and out of the pool supporting shrubs, grasses, spotted gums, paperbark trees, maiden hair ferns and a wide variety of wildlife. It’s an impressive sight but one difficult to photograph due to the extreme contrast of light and the angle of the sun at our visit.

A rest was in order – a coffee would have been nice, or even an ice-cream – and the many boulders that had fallen over the years made convenient seats for the weary. But a little of the fauna had got there before us. Ants of every size and type, we discovered some time ago, are everywhere in the deserts and this spot was no different. They, like flies and mosquitoes, also have a predilection for anything black and in particular my camera bag it seems. I didn’t sit around for too long!

Turning around, we slid, scrambled and clambered our way back over the rock slabs to the very steep, stepped track back up to ground level, stopping many times to admire the view – or catch our breath depending on how honest we were.

A great walk and just a short stroll from our campground. Absolutely recommended. It’s easier than it may sound but good walking shoes, a walking pole, plenty of water and a good sense of balance is all that’s required. Just prepare to get hot. Even in the cooler dry season temperatures in the mid-thirties are the norm and temperatures begin to rise again in late September.

Today is another adventure on our exploration of the hidden gorges of Karijini National Park. It’s also the big one on our list and a challenging one in several ways. We’re heading to Weano Gorge and the Handrail Pool.

G’Day Bruce

Leaving Dales Gorge and we have 80KM of blacktop to our next turn-off and very little change of scenery along the route with the exception of a few rather large hills. They are in fact mountains and one of them: Mount Bruce is actually Western Australia’s second highest mountain.

While on the subject of mountains it wouldn’t, of course, be Australian without a Mount Sheila and, yes, one happens to be close by – I kid you not. Whoever named the remaining peaks in this region, though, must have run short on names, was tired or just couldn’t be bothered with the next one being thoughtfully named: Mount Nameless. We briefly pondered a detour for a climb up Mount Bruce until its apparent increasing grade persuaded us otherwise.

Just under an our from set-off we neared our turn – more clearly identified by the red stained tarmac than the road signs on approach. We’re now greeted with some of the roughest, rutted dirt road we have had the uncomfortable displeasure of experiencing. And part of the reason is the idiots driving well beyond the speed limit churning up the road and sending clouds of dust into the air. Likewise the same mindless people overtaking us with oncoming traffic so neither can see through the cloud of dust and gravel kicked-up in the air. Perhaps not coincidently they are usually company utes or hire cars. This was, however, a good opportunity to test out the Terrain Response modes of our Land Rover Discovery 5.

Comfort mode would provide some restpite from the punishing ruts of a normal dirt road perhaps but not this one. Sand, gravel and snow would appear to be the best to cope with the loose ground but still the ruts were winning. Mud Ruts didn’t give us the power we needed to get on top of the ruts and minimise the vibration so we opted for Comfort, which seemed the best compromise. Still, 13.5KM was far from enjoyable. Maybe if we had been in a hire car it would have seemed much smoother… and quicker.

Joffre Falls

Our first destination was a brief detour from the main track, which led us, though badly signed, to Joffre Falls Lookout. Now if Circular Pool was a jaw-dropping experience, then I need to revert to a thesaurus to find some other words appropriate to describe the view as you begin to look further and further into this gaping chasm in the ground. It is way deeper than you would expect and far, far more dramatic. This was akin to looking down into the Grand Canyon for the very first time only darker and more foreboding.

Deep down, a narrow channel of water flows from the falls, which by now, towards the end of the dry season, is little more than a trickle and a partly dry circular basin. Voices could be clearly heard from below and with a little searching we spotted several people clambering over rocks along the bottom of the gorge.

Then more voices as we watched nervously as a small group struggled their way up the opposite rock wall. It is probably every bit as steep as it looked from our vantage point. Then, to our utter disbelief, two young girls started the climb down into the gorge in bare feet!! You really have to wonder what has become of common sense nowadays. Sadly, as we have seen several times now, many adults are just as oblivious to the serious nature of these walks and the personal responsibility that goes with them. Perhaps evolution has taken a wrong step somewhere along the way.

For a reference of scale the photograph to the left was taken with a telephoto lens showing just the lower third of the gorge. There are three people in the image and they have to climb that rock face to exit the gorge.

One last drive, a brief teasing patch of tarmac followed by more ruts and we arrived at our goal – Weano Recreation Area and an experience we’ll never forget.

Oxer Lookout

To get a taster for what we were about to see we took the short stroll over to Oxer Lookout, which gives dramatic views where Weano, Hancock and Red Gorge meet. The red rock is even more spectacular in the early morning and late afternoon as the sun sinks to the horizon. 

Weano Gorge

Now those who have studied the park guide in advance may notice something rather odd about the map displayed at the start of the gorge walks. After a little reflection you may notice that the map is upside down, but rather dangerously, the north pointer is still pointing upwards. Follow this one using a compass and at best you’ll find yourself on the wrong walk and at worst lost. Getting lost here with no mobile phone coverage and the real risk of venomous snake bites is something you really do not want to experience. As soon as we are able we’ll be notifying WA’s National Parks Service.

Weano Gorge walk offers a brief glimpse of what to expect as you follow the gorge rim, but how wrong could you be. Something far more dramatic, far more spectacular awaits those that can cope with a grade 4 and 5 walk and at the same time don’t mind getting a little, or a lot, wet in the process.

A relatively easy walk down to the gorge floor finds you among deep orange and rust coloured vertical rock walls to a mostly level walk. Spotted River gums line the path with tall, healthy looking grasses. Several shallow pools of water remain reflecting the colour of the rocks and the white tree trunks of the gums.

In places the path requires an easy scramble over rocks and well placed stones help cross the few wet patches. After a few more scrambles we reached our initial destination hemmed in by the gorge walls. A path then leads diagonally uphill to the top and the end of the walk.

We had initially chosen to walk to the curiously named Handrail Pool another day but having spoken with another group at the end of our current walk we decided to continue further and we were so glad we did.

Handrail Pool

Continuing on the gorge gradually narrows and twists and turns past a few small pools easily crossed by stepping stones until reaching a larger pool, which requires wading through shin-high water or for those with a good sense of balance a delicate clamber along the exposed rock wall. We chose the water route but crossed bare foot – Gortex walking shoes are just as good at holding water in as keeping it out. Besides, the pool’s cool water provided a very welcome relief in this hot weather.

Becoming increasingly narrow the path is more challenging with large rectangular rocks and boulders to negotiate until closing in further with a trickle of water on the slippery layered rock under our feet. And then, wow. The gorge opens into a small circular chamber glowing orange in the shaft of sunlight and reflecting off a clear pool of water. The colour of the rocks are stunning with every shade of orange through to purple and even blue where the polished stone reflects the blue sky above. 

The chamber had been formed by the rushing water that courses through here during the wet season with the aid of rocks, stones and boulders that swirl around scouring the gorge walls.

From here the gorge walls narrow even further allowing for the more athletic to spider walk above the water during the wet season. Right now hardly more than a trickle runs through but even with walking boots the smooth rock offers little grip and a slip could easily result in injury or a twisted joint and it is far from an easy exercise to extract an injured party from such a narrow passage. It should be remembered the nearest source of emergency services are in the town of Tom Price 90KM away. Walkers within the National Park are advised it could potentially take up to eight hours to be rescued.

The passage eventually leads through to the impressive and much larger Handrail Pool. It’s more of a challenge than we had expected with the weight of our camera bags, slippery rock and a downward facing slope. We held on tight to the oversized steel handrail from which this pool gained its named.

It is possible to get a good view of the pool and its vertical rock walls without climbing down any further but it is quite a precarious position and needs careful balance and a little courage to let go of the handrail to take a photograph. The wearing of brave pants is advisable.

The handrail, fastened to the left hand rock wall, slopes down towards the biggest challenge of the walk where it drops vertically down to a narrow gravel base that edges the pool. The decent requires straddling the handrail and feeling for the foot supports widely spaced below.

Surrounded by rock walls the pool water receives very little direct sunlight and as a result it’s cold, very cold in fact. Warnings are posted at the start of the walk advising of the risk of hyperthermia. Still, a few people couldn’t resist the challenge. We were happy just to take a few photographs before carefully turning around and retracing our steps.

Returning to where we had waded through the pool blocking our passage earlier a dry route along the rock wall looked more passable than we had initially thought and a bit of scrambling had us clear and dry and soon making our way back to the steep accent leading to the top of the gorge.

We had planned one final walk but a view from the Hancock Gorge Lookout soon had us changing our minds, perhaps a bit more of a challenge than we were ready for and we still had a tough drive ahead of us to get back to our campsite.

Australian photographer, Ken Duncan, has created many stunning photographs of the gorges within Karijini National Park and Weano Gorge among them. It was through his images that we first learnt of Karijini National Park and we’re so glad we have been able to visit. Thanks Ken.