Port Douglas

Posted on August 18, 2024 by Discovery Down Under

60KM north of Cairns and bordering on two UNESCO World Heritage listed sites, Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, is the coastal town of Port Douglas – another town in Queensland established following the discovery of gold in 1877.

What’s in a name… or several?

Named after the former Premier of Queensland, John Douglas, Port Douglas’ development was largely based on the mining industry with timber cutting playing a part along the Daintree River. Unusually Port Douglas wasn’t the port’s first name, nor the second. It was previously known as Terrigal, Island Point, Port Owen and Salisbury.

Driven by tourism

These days Port Douglas is largely driven by tourism thanks to its location close to the Daintree Rainforest, 4-Mile Beach, Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures, Cape Tribulation and fast boat access to the inner and outer regions of the Great Barrier Reef. But it wasn’t until the 1980’s that tourism took-off following construction of the Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas Resort. Now the Mirage is just one of the many hotels and resorts that Port Douglas has to offer as well as holiday apartments, caravan sites and private accommodation.

While staying in Cairns this week we decided to spend Sunday in Port Douglas, specifically to visit the Sunday Market located on the foreshore. It was our third visit to the Port in 18-years and likely not the last.

The market is open from 8am to 1.30pm at ANZAC Park and features locally made products including jewellery, clothing, crafts and artwork as well as food and the all important coffee and pastry stalls.

The market backs onto the beach and one of the classic Port Douglas photo spots – the Sugar Wharf.

Saint Mary’s by the sea

Another popular photography location and adjacent to the market is the cute timber clad Saint Mary’s by the sea – a non-denominational chapel. Initially constructed in the 1880’s as Saint Mary’s Roman Catholic church, it was destroyed by the cyclone of 1911 and rebuilt between 1913 and 1914. Saint Mary’s is now a popular wedding chapel available for hire as is the Sugar Wharf for wedding receptions.

Since our last visit the once immaculate chapel is now clearly in need of a fresh coat of paint. However, a peek inside will impress with a lofty vaulted ceiling and a window directly behind the alter providing a stunning view over Trinity Bay towards the Daintree Rainforest in the distance.

Cyclone Yasi

No different to all coastal towns in Far North Queensland, Port Douglas is not immune to the seasonal cyclones. To date the Cairns and Port Douglas region has felt the impact of 53-cyclones since 1876 with the worst for Port Douglas being on March 16th 1911 when only 7 of the 57-properties remained standing with two lives lost. More recently, in December 2023, cyclone Yasi made landfall. It wasn’t the wind that devastated the area but the weather events that followed with more than 3.2-metres of rain falling in less than a week – that’s more than 2-year’s average rainfall. Over 100-land slips and rockfalls caused widespread damage with severe flooding, houses destroyed and some communities isolated as a result of collapsing coastal roads. Almost a year later and road repairs are still ongoing with many sections of the Cairns to Port Douglas road affected. And up in the mountains the scars of landslips will remain visible for a great many years to come.

Balancing Stones

Something we first spotted along the coast of the South Island of New Zealand is the art of stone balancing. Seemingly something of a bit of a hobby for our New Zealand cousins, stacking round stones has spread across the ditch and nowhere better displayed than on the rocks beside the Cairns to Port Douglas road.

There’s parking available for a few cars to pullover and explore the many stacks that have been built. Maybe even have a go yourself.

The Crocodile Hunter

In 2006 Port Douglas hit the international news when Steve Irwin, the ‘Crocodile Hunter’, was tragically killed by a stingray, ironically, during filming of the documentary ‘The Ocean’s Deadliest’ on nearby Batt Reef. Steve’s death came as a shock and was so unexpected for someone who had spent most of his life working with some of the most deadly creatures on this planet. His wildlife warrior legacy continues with his family – Terri, Bindi and especially his son, Robert, who has stepped into Steve’s shoes with the same infectious enthusiasm as his father.

Australia Zoo, based in Beerwah, Southeast Queensland, is dedicated to Steve’s quest to better understand and protect wildlife wherever it exists anywhere in the world.

Cairns – a City in a garden

Posted on August 17, 2024 by Discovery Down Under

Often described as a city in a garden, it’s easy to see why – lush, tropical and colourful.

For over a century following Captain Cook’s 1770 voyage, Cairns was simply known as Trinity Bay. In 1876 following the discovery of gold to the west of the tablelands, a port was constructed as an export facility and the area surrounding the new port was named Cairns in honour of Sir William Cairns the then Governor of Queensland.

Cairns is now a large coastal town supporting a diverse agricultural region as well as a major international tourism centre with lots to offer the visitor. Wether it be its close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef and its many adventure tours from the harbour, its position sat between the Coral Sea and the dominating mountains or its ancient Daintree Rainforest, there is something here for everyone. For travellers it even has its own international airport just minutes from the city centre.

Mud, glorious mud

Shaded by giant figs and native almond trees is the Esplanade, a winding pathway along the coastal front providing a relaxing walk sheltered from the sun. A large pool known as the Lagoon takes centre stage, which is hugely popular with locals and visitors alike, surrounded by lawns to sit and enjoy a picnic or just catch a few rays.

Cafes and restaurants line the inner esplanade providing everything from fresh seafood to delicious gelato. On the coastal side, when the tide is out, unfortunately, is a very large expanse of mud – not the most picturesque of views. That said, this is crocodile country so keeping away from the sea isn’t such a bad idea. And with the large pool and children’s playground there’s plenty to keep the little, and not so little, ones amused.

Esplanade Closed

The evening before we arrived in Cairns we heard reports that a helicopter had crashed into a hotel in the early hours of the morning. It didn’t seem to make sense. Why would a helicopter be flying so low, so fast – according to witnesses, and at night. Suspicion was confirmed the following day. The helicopter had been taken from Cairn’s airport and crashed into the Double Tree Hilton Hotel on the Esplanade shortly after. An elderly couple, in the room immediately below the crash, had been taken to hospital and were being treated for shock. The crash had completely collapsed the windows of their hotel room. Later in the day it was confirmed that the New Zealand helicopter pilot working for Nautilus Aviation in Cairns, had been out celebrating his promotion with colleagues and, afterwards at around 1.50AM, had accessed the General Aviation area of the airport, entered the company’s office, took the keys to the helicopter and decided to go for a ride. The short flight ended in a fiery crash in which he was killed. It was an unauthorised flight and he was not licensed to fly in Australia.

We saw the crash site as we walked along the Esplanade a couple of days later after the area had been reopened following investigations by the Australian Transport Safety Bureau.

Palm Cove

On a lighter note and just 30-minutes north of Cairns is the popular beachside resort of Palm Cove featuring a glorious beach backed by countless coconut palms and 500-year old paperbark trees. Being so picturesque it is no surprise that Palm Cove is one of Australia’s most popular wedding destinations and also the nation’s Spa capital.

Palm Cove is also well provided with eateries including several fine dining restaurants with views out to Double Island. We can certainly vouch for Vivo after a superb meal we had there on our day visit from Cairns. Just as well provided are the options for accommodation ranging from boutique hotels to caravan and camping sites.

Parking during peak times may be a challenge so arriving early is recommended. Even during the peak holiday period when we visited the beach was almost deserted… or maybe everyone was still trying to find a parking space?

Coconuts

Big 4 Ingenia Holidays Cairns Coconut Resort has been our home while in Cairns and we can highly recommend it. Known simply as ‘Coconuts’ the resort is fully featured with lush tropical planting (and yes that includes coconut palms) caravan, camper van, trailer and tent sites as well as many villas, two pools, children’s playgrounds, tennis, volleyball and basketball courts, outdoor cinema, a spa, cafe, bar… the list goes on. It is in a great location too just off the highway and only 7KM from the centre of town. Transport is just as good. Rather than take the car it’s easier, and much cheaper, to take a bus to the city. Just introduced in Queensland, as part of the cost of living relief, is the 50-cent fare on buses and trains. And with the bus stop just a few minutes walk from Coconuts you would be nuts to drive yourself.

Tomorrow we reach the furthest point north in our trip to Far North Queensland – Port Douglas.

Skyrail Rainforest Cableway

Posted on August 15, 2024 by Discovery Down Under

We’ve finely reached our most northerly destination on this trip – Cairns in Far North Queensland (FNQ). And where better to get an overview of the city than from up above.

Up in the Air

A great place to get an overview of Cairns is to climb onboard Skyrail’s 7.5km Rainforest Cableway – a cable car with a dramatic view and once the longest cableway in the world. Located just 15-mins north of Cairns at Smithfield within the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Barron Gorge National Park.

Free parking is provided directly in front of the Smithfield terminal and serves both the Skyrail and Kuranda Scenic Railway. For those booking Skyrail to Kuranda in one direction and the train in the other, a courtesy bus, stopping in front of the Skyrail terminal, takes guests to and from Freshwater Train Station. Alternatively the train can be caught in Cairns directly.

Bookings Essential

It should be noted that during peak periods, this currently being one of them, it is essential to pre-book tickets. Each car seats six people and you may be required to share with others. Look on it as being an opportunity to meet like minded people and share travel adventures – we did.

Boarding is a little slow at this time of year but we were soon setting-off on the first section of the cableway. The steep 10-minute ride climbs to the 545-metre summit of Red Peak with expansive views over the city and beyond before descending a little over the rainforest to Red Peak Station. A change of car is required for the next span, by far the longest, but the opportunity to take a short break to explore along the signed boardwalk at Red Peak is recommended. Time permitting, there is still the option to take-in the walk on the way back if returning by Skyrail.

The cableway then traverses the spectacular tropical rainforest for another 20-minutes giving the opportunity, if you’re brave enough, to look down below at the diversity of trees, shrubs and vines and potentially the Ulysses butterfly as its iridescent blue wings standout against the backdrop of tree foliage. As an extra paid option the Skyrail Diamond car is available with a transparent floor if the standard car is not scary enough for you or the little ones.

Barron Falls

The next stop is Barron Falls, a huge rocky ravine where the Barron River falls over granite rock as it descends from high in the Atherton Tablelands towards Cairns.

In the ‘Dry’ season (April to October) the falls still flow, and more so following rain, but during the ‘Wet’ (November to March) you can witness the falls at their best where the torrential tropical downpours create a boiling, seething maelstrom of water and spray as it crashes down into the gorge. A good viewpoint is the Edge Lookout opened in 2019, which, incidentally, has a glass floor to make the drop of 160-metres to the gorge all the more enjoyable! It’s highly recommended to stop here and take the short walk to the cantilevered lookout before rejoining the next available car for the 15-minute ride to the final stop at Kuranda Station.

Barron Falls in Summer. Credit: Tourism Tropical North Queensland

Kuranda

Originally settled by the Djabugay indigenous people around 10,000-years ago and whose relatives continue to this day, Kuranda was later settled by Europeans in the mid 1880’s taking up farming in the area and producing timber, dairy cattle and eventually coffee. During the ‘Flower Power’ and anti-Vietnam War period of the mid-1960’s, hippie communes developed seeking a simple, self-supporting, laid-back lifestyle. Today the hippie influence is still very much in evidence as is the drifting scent of incense, especially in the ‘Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets’. Sadly the market has lost its once popular craft and food scene and looks increasingly neglected as new stores open on the main streets selling cheap tourist junk. To us, and since our last visit more than a few years ago, Kuranda has lost its edge. It’s not cheap to get here and apart from the picturesque Kuranda Scenic Railway Station and the Butterfly Sanctuary the journey here is now the highlight and no longer the destination.

Kuranda by Rail

For those not having the stomach for a swinging cable car, there is an alternative option. The Kuranda Scenic Railway can be caught in Cairns or Freshwater Station and provides views of the surrounding landscape on its winding climb up to Kuranda Station with a brief stop at Barron Falls to get the best photo opportunity.

The train can also be combined, for those choosing a little more variety, to go up to Kuranda by train and return on the cable car or vice-versa. We have done both and the two are equally recommended.

Construction of the 37KM long railway started in 1887 and reached Kuranda in 1891. The railway required 15-tunnels, which were dug by hand and 37-bridges. It wasn’t until 1936 that the railway was opened to tourism.

How do you build in a protected Rainforest?

Think for just a minute about all the indigenous people of the region, save the trees campaigners, the political activists and those that genuinely want to protect natural forests for future generations, and you have to wonder how Skyrail got permission to build a 7.5km cable car through a rainforest, a World Heritage listed one at that. Well, certainly there were protests both from locals, environmentalists and the indigenous people. It was regularly in the press and on TV and in radio reports. It gained worldwide attention not only for the proposed development within a pristine and ancient environment but also for the precedent that it would set for other developments around the world in highly sensitive environments. Should it get approval the proposal would be the first ever commercial development in a World Heritage listed area.

And, remarkably, it did! It would give people the opportunity to see and experience this ancient rainforest without any erosion causing foot traffic. After much debate and negotiations a compromise by the developer was reached requiring construction of the cableway to be made from the air, the concrete, steel gantries and the construction teams – all delivered by helicopter. And so it was, Skyrail opened to the public in August 1995. Today Skyrail is so busy during the peak season that, as we have mentioned, pre-booking is essential.

Booking options and further details available on Skyrail’s website

Townsville

Posted on August 10, 2024 by Discovery Down Under

Continuing our journey north brings us to Townsville for 4-nights and along with it a little apprehension. We needn’t have worried.

Castle Hill

Originally known as Castletown, the city was renamed Townsville after its founder Robert Towns when it became an official port in 1865. The city sits below the 286-metre granite dome known as Castle Hill once used in part as a defensive fortress and lookout. It is now the most expensive real estate location in the city.

The lookout is easily accessed along a narrow road by car, or bicycle for the fit, and by foot via several bush walks for those even fitter. It provides 360-degree views over the city, port, airport, retail, industrial and residential areas both inland towards the mountains or out over the sea to Magnetic Island and beyond.

Often referred to as Australia’s ‘fortress city’, Townsville is home to a large part of the country’s defence forces and one of the largest military bases in Australia. Supporting both the Army and the Royal Australian Air Force its presence can hardly be missed as you drive north along the Bruce Highway heading for the city. With increasing tensions in and around the South China Sea, the city will see an uptake in defence force numbers and activities over coming years.

The city is also a major industrial centre with one of the largest zinc processing plants in the world importing minerals from several overseas and more local mines such as Mount Isa to the east. It is the only city in the world that refines three base metals with copper and nickel additional to the zinc being processed here. This makes it an ideal location for manufacturing products using those metals and exporting worldwide through the port. And such a plan is underway with a $2bn lithium-ion battery manufacturing facility to be built shortly.

Sugar Sugar

And, of course, not forgetting the region’s major agricultural crop – Sugar Cane. Grown throughout the year, sugar cane is an unmistakable sight in Queensland and especially so in the north.

Along with the enormous fields of cane comes the cane trains and their narrow gauge rail tracks, which crisscross the landscape and many road crossings. Once famous for the spectacle of burning the cane, at least in classic Aussie songs and car commercials of the 1980’s, the region just south of Townsville is one of the last to predominantly burn cane prior to harvest. The fire is used not to burn-off the remaining stubble post harvesting but actually to remove leaves and dry vegetation to make the harvesting process easier. The fires usually take place between June and November.

We’ve been ‘Stranded’

Sitting between the north of the city and the port is a popular area known as The Strand where the beach is fringed by coconut palms and ancient fig trees. Running in parallel are numerous cafes and restaurants where those taking a stroll along the Strand’s winding footpath can stop for a break, sip a coffee looking out towards Magnetic Island or just soak up the sun.

Fewer people venture into the sea this far north alert to the wet season’s numerous poisonous jellyfish and crocodiles. Thankfully numerous signs along the strand help identify jellyfish species and their sting symptoms while providing bottles of vinegar to help alleviate their painful effects.

Positively attractive

And talking of Magnetic Island, its modern-era name allegedly originated as a consequence of the compass on Captain Cook’s ship becoming erratic as he was passing in close proximity in 1770.

‘Maggie’ is one of just a few inhabited Great Barrier Reef islands with upwards of 2,500 people calling the island home. It is also largely designated a National Park with 76% of the island coming under N.P status and protection. A haven for wildlife, Maggie Island has a growing population of koalas believed to be in excess of 800 and making it the largest colony in northern Queensland.

Easily reached by ferry from Townsville, Magnetic Island is just 8km offshore and makes for a good day out from the mainland or for a longer stay at one of the many hotels or smaller accommodation options.

World War II

The bombing of Darwin during WWII is well publicised but lesser known was the Japanese attacks on Townsville. Between the 25th and 31st of July 1942, attacks over several raids fortunately resulted in little damage and no fatalities. The only injury came on the 31st of July when a single flying boat dropped a bomb at Mossman injuring a child.

Just one of many works of art along the Strand.

Crime Capital

Unfortunately Townsville has a serious problem with youth crime. In fact it has the highest youth crime rate in the country with 55,000 crimes committed per 100,000 of the population. With a current average population of 179,000 people it’s easy to see how serious a problem this has become. It has all been exasperated by an appalling policy introduced by the ruling government. The offenders are arrested by the police and presented before the court. The judges are being told that incarceration should be the last option for crimes committed by youths. The result, they are just released back into the community to commit further crimes knowing they have the upper hand.

That said, although we were wary and taking precautions when walking around the city, we encountered no issues and actually felt quite relaxed in the friendly atmosphere.

Whitsundays Cruise

Posted on August 5, 2024 by Discovery Down Under

Our final pre-booked trip sees us cruise around the Whitsundays onboard SeaLink’s Reef Quest III, a new and fast, powered catamaran. SeaLink provide courtesy coach transfers from several pickup points in and around the Airlie Beach area for the short drive to Shute Harbour, around 10-minutes from central Airlie Beach.

Whitehaven Big Island Day Tour

Our choice of cruise with SeaLink is the ‘Whitehaven Big Island Day Tour’ taking in North and South Molle Islands, Cid Island and Hook Island, which we saw from the air yesterday but this time cruising through the narrow Hook Passage before taking anchor at Tongue Point. From there we transfer to the beach aboard the ship’s tender to walk up to the Hill Inlet viewpoints before sailing around to Whitehaven Beach for a bush-walk or to pass a couple of hours wandering along the 7KM beach before returning back to port via Chance Bay, Hamilton and Dent Islands.

First impressions

Stepping aboard Reef Quest immediately impresses with two large, immaculate and brightly lit indoor cabins with plenty of outdoor seating also available for those who enjoy the cool sea breeze or keeping a lookout for wildlife. Tea and coffee facilities greet you in the air conditioned dining cabin with large viewing windows and comfortable banket seating.

All aboard

We’re soon underway with the morning snack of fresh fruit and muffins being served. The ship can carry 280 guests but limiting each cruise to only 84 means there is no problem finding a seat or waiting too long to be transferred by tender at each landing.

SeaLink Whitehaven Big Island Day Tour route

Our skipper was also our guide while onboard and ran a commentary throughout most of the cruise detailing the history of the Whitsundays and facts about each of the islands as we passed them. He also kept an eye out from his high vantage point for whales and it wasn’t long before we started sighting them. Perhaps not quite as close as you would see on a dedicated whale watching tour but very visible and on several occasions very active breaching high in the air and creating a huge splash as they dropped to the sea. Giving maximum viewing time the skipper slowed right down to give everyone the opportunity to take a photograph or ‘oooh’ and ‘aah’ each time a whale launched itself into the air.

Back on course and speeding towards Hook Passage it was very noticeable that the sea was beginning to churn with waves forming as the tide was being squeezed between the adjacent islands. Next, turning to the south and we’re into clear water again passing along the coast of Whitsunday Island heading for anchorage just to the north of the spectacle that is Hill Inlet. Yesterday we got stunning views of Hill Inlet from our flight above but today was our opportunity to view the swirling sand and sea formation from a vantage point with our feet firmly on solid ground.

Tongue Point to Hill Inlet

Our boat set anchor in a sheltered bay at Tongue Point to transfer passengers to shore ready for the bush walk up to the Hill Inlet viewpoints. It’s a relatively easy walk with many well built steps to negotiate as it passes through native vegetation and small trees. Brief glimpses of the sea tease before reaching the summit and then a short decent before opening out to the first of three viewing platforms. And what a view! Although quite busy with our three groups amongst others, it was easy to get to the front of each platform. It wasn’t the best weather for photographs today with rain in the distance and low, patchy cloud but the scene was still stunning with the swirling and twisting Hill Inlet passage making its way further into the Island’s interior. Created by the ever changing tides, the wavy patterns are constantly changing with the best views to be had at low tide. To the left of the passage, and continuing into the distance, is the famous Whitehaven beach, which we will be stepping onto next.

As the three groups began their walk back to the beach, I stayed on a little longer when I noticed a gap starting to open up in the cloud shading the inlet. It was well worth the wait to see the sea light up in such a stunning shade of turquoise. It could only have been better if the tide was a little lower.

Before long we were being ferried back to our boat and enjoying a delicious buffet lunch the crew had laid out for us while we continued around to Whitehaven Beach.

Whitehaven Beach

Our ship’s tender ferried us to the beach giving us two hours to wander, take a guided bush walk or just laze around in the sun. We chose to walk along the almost deserted beach and paddle in the surprisingly cool water for a kilometre or so before sitting under the shade of a tree and watching the waves lap gently against the shore. The beach sand has a few unusual characteristics; being almost white allows it to reflect away most of the intense sun meaning it’s actually cool to walk on and even squeaks as you do so. It is also extremely fine and, apparently, makes an ideal polish for jewellery. I’m sure our feet felt softer after our walk too. Local myth even suggests NASA took advantage of the silica’s purity using it to create glass for the Hubble Space Telescope. When questioned if the story was actually true, allegedly the response was, “um, we may have done.” That’s a ‘No’ then.

Whitehaven’s 98% pure silica beach really is quite special, though, and something of a quandary. Sand is usually deposited on shore from local sources such as finely broken down rock, coral or sea shells. Here, however, there is no known source of silica of such high grade anywhere nearby. It is believed to have been deposited here potentially millions of years ago and is such an important and irreplaceable asset that it is legally protected with heavy fines for anyone attempting to take home a ‘souvenir’ of their visit. That is, of course, unless you are Oprah Winfrey, who’s advisers clearly didn’t make her aware of the rules.

The beach does, however, have a claim to fame being regularly voted best beach in the world and was featured in the ‘Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead men tell no tales’ feature film. Prior to, and during, filming the production company bought every available day trip and boating adventure in the area to ensure the beach was free of tourists and the sea clear of any boat that didn’t fit the era. And just to add to the authenticity of the ‘Caribbean Island’ it was standing-in for, the production crew planted palm trees along the beach, which natively do not grow on the island. After production ended they were removed and replanted at Airlie Beach.

Wildlife

There is plenty of wildlife around the Whitsunday Islands both on land and in the sea. Snakes such as pythons and grass snakes are common but there’s also the highly venomous eastern brown and taipan, though mostly found around properties or sunbathing on the roads. Dugongs, countless reef fish and six of the seven species of turtle in the world call the Whitsundays home and not forgetting the migrating whales, white and blacktip reef sharks, manta rays and several species of dolphin. Of course being in the Australian tropics means stinging jellyfish, some of which can be lethal, should be avoided during their most active time between October and May – probably not the best time of year to go swimming. And I suppose I should mention the common ‘handbag’, known also as the saltwater crocodile, is present in these waters. Usually confined to rivers and river estuaries they do often wander further afield in search of a decent meal. But for us, apart from the odd spider and sea birds, all we saw was a friendly Lace Monitor scavenging for food.

The lace monitor is both active and highly agile being just as happy walking along the ground or climbing up rock faces or trees in search of a tasty morsel… and growing up to two metres in length, big enough to scare the life out of an unsuspecting tourist!

Heading for Home

Back onboard we settled in for the return leg of our cruise passing between Whitsunday and Haslewood Islands to follow the southern coast of Whitsunday Island through Chance Bay admiring some exclusive properties. We skirted Hamilton Island, home to a few eye wateringly expensive resorts such as the hyper-exclusive, 6-star ‘qualia’ resort – deliberately written with a lowercase ‘Q’ and a registered name to boot – now that’s exclusive! Well, Chris Hemsworth, Taylor Swift and Johnny Depp must think so being just a few of the celebrities that have stayed there.

Finally passing by Dent, Henning and Long Islands we arrived back at Shute Harbour after a thoroughly enjoyable day, made all the more special by good friends of ours who we have been sharing this week of adventures with in and around Airlie Beach.

A Grand Day Out

We’d highly recommend SeaLink’s ‘Whitehaven Big Island Day Tour’ suitable for all ages with the added opportunity to see whales during July to October and at the very least some magnificent scenery.

More details available from SeaLink’s website.

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