Today was another of our early start days to get to the ferry terminal at Hillarys by 7am. Our destination this time was Rottnest Island named by early Dutch explorers who believed the local marsupials were large rats and so gave the island the Dutch name of Rott Nest – literally Rats Nest.

We had booked ahead and included bicycle hire as the only other visitor transport options on the island are by foot or a Hop-on, Hop-off bus. It was a bold choice as I hadn’t cycled for over 26-years and a long time too for Catherine. Still, if you want to get around the island it is the best way and the glorious weather was on our side with little wind and a clear, deep blue sky.

The 45-minute crossing was surprisingly choppy in a few places with an ocean swell but we were soon into calm waters again and mooring at the Rottnest Jetty. All the bikes had been loaded onto the deck and as a result were exposed to the waves giving them a good soaking.

We set-off, a little wobbly at first but it seems it’s a skill you never forget, just in need of a little practice. We didn’t get far before we were greeted by our first ‘Dutch Rat’ more correctly known as a Quokka though far less easy to spell.

The Quokka, pronounced ‘kwoka’, is a marsupial about the size of a large rabbit with a thick, heavy tail, the same gait as a kangaroo and the most adorable face. They’re friendly too and will happily pose for a photo for a modest fee. It is a current trend to take a selfie with a Quokka though they’re probably tired of having cameras and iPhones stuck in front of their faces when all they really want is some food. Being wild animals, of course, signs are everywhere telling people ‘Do not feed or give water to the wildlife’, ‘Do not touch the wildlife’ but still they do and the poor things become reliant on humans.

I can smell Coffee

But it was time for a coffee, of course, and visitors to the island are well catered for with a few restaurants, a supermarket and our choice – the Rottnest Bakery. They must have known we were coming and had clearly been busy baking for us since the early hours. There were many tempting cakes and pastries and I had my eye on a custard doughnut until Catherine pointed out the enormous cinnamon scrolls big enough for the both of us and the size of a large plate.

Which Way?

Now with an island just 11KM long and 4.5KM at its widest you would think navigating what few roads there are would be simple, especially with the supplied map. However, the road signage appears to have been created by someone with a sense of humour and an interest in bird life of the avian variety. The map clearly shows the three cycle routes in brown and green with a splash of red. But trying to find where any of them start from the jetty or cafe area is complete guess work. Worse still, if you do chance to find yourself on one of the routes then you’ll quickly realise they are signed with images of birds and not the colours of the routes on the map. Still, we were up for the challenge even though our muscles clearly were not.

We took the counterclockwise route and quickly discovered Rottnest Island was nowhere near as flat as it appeared from the sea. We also discovered which leg muscles hadn’t been exercised for a while – going uphill was punishing but we were determined not to get off and walk when we had only just started. The effort was soon rewarded, though, as we topped the hill and got our first view of Parakeet Bay with its clear turquoise water.

Ospreys

More hills, many more beautiful bays and white sandy beaches followed. Rottnest Island is gifted with such stunning scenery and no more so than at the furthest point from the jetty at Cape Vlamingh. Here mighty waves smash into the rocks along the coast pushed by prevailing winds, while just around the corner Fish Hook Bay provides shelter, deep aqua-blue water and provides a habitat for Ospreys. One Osprey nest is clearly visible on a prominent rock in the bay and is believed to be 70-years old.

Saddle Sore

After a brief break from the saddles and a spot of lunch, we retraced our route for a short while before turning towards the southern coast with good views of Wadjemup Lighthouse. A steep track leads up to the lighthouse and, apparently, gives good views across the island but we were happy to let those with less shaky legs enjoy the viewpoint. Instead we took a wrong turn while being distracted by a couple of cute Quokkas by the roadside and inadvertently headed north. To turn back meant a steep hill so we continued on briefly before turning south along a track that followed beside a somewhat smelly lake, past the end of the airport runway and on to a sandy path, which meant dismounting for a while and walking until we rejoined our planned route.

When the wind blows

Rottnest Island is exposed to the full force of the gales that blow across the Indian Ocean before reaching the mainland and its effect is clearly visible across the island with short trees and creeping dunes and none more so than one particular tree that we came across that has given up trying to resist the winds and just grows sideways.

The West coast of Western Australia is particularly windy during Spring and we were lucky to have arrived on the island on one of the few days when the wind was taking a break, though it would have been helpful pushing us up some of the steeper hills.

Porpoise Bay was another one of those stunning places providing views back towards Perth and its tall city buildings. With the road flattening out we were soon on our way back towards the jetty before a roadside sign stopped us in our tracks. It was posted where old railway lines cross the road to an old army depot at Army Jetty. It appears to illustrate what happens if you cycle across the rail lines at the wrong angle. From out of nowhere you sprout a red cape and turn into Superman. Cool! How many children seeing the sign would be tempted to give that a try?

Finally back at the jetty we were in need of a bite to eat and a cooling beer and it appeared the Quokkas were looking for food too as they hunted for crumbs around the cafe’s tables.

All Aboard

Back onboard the ferry with bikes safely tied down and we were soon arriving at our starting port of Hillarys after a day of exercise, beautiful weather and lots of beautiful scenery.

Tomorrow was looking like we were going to be aching badly but it will have been well worth it and we would do it all again given the chance.

A day visit to Rottnest is absolutely recommended as long as you feel fit enough to cope with the hills. If not, take the Hop-on, Hop-off bus and enjoy all that the island has to offer.

Popularly known simply as ‘Freo’, the beachside city of Fremantle, situated 20KM southwest of Perth city centre, is a delightful coastal town full of character, charm and more than a little history.

The town is named after English Naval Captain Charles Howe Fremantle who claimed the West Coast of ‘New Holland’ for King George IV and established the first camp in 1829 following suspicions that the French may have been showing interest in the west of Australia. After discovery of considerable reserves of gold in Southern Cross, Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie, Freo became equally a prosperous port and town resulting in some of the impressive architecture that remains to this day.

We have been in Perth for the past week enjoying much that the city and its outlying regions has to offer. I have visited Perth several times previously but it is the first for Catherine and the first for both of us exploring Fremantle. And having a street known as the Cappuccino Strip we knew we were in the right place for a good coffee.

Fremantle Markets

A popular spot for art and crafts, food and entertainment, Fremantle Market should be on your list of places to visit. Fresh fruit and vegetable stalls sit at one end of the market with a huge variety on offer. Still run by the families of many of the Chinese Market gardeners that settled in Perth around the time of the gold rush in the late 1800’s, it is good to see the trade surviving the endless onslaught of the major supermarkets.

Being a little hungry we sighted Michel’s Crepe Suzette tucked into a narrow spot near the market entrance. And what a choice of fillings there were with menu boards plastered on all available wall space. Highly recommended, though a little slow on service, definitely worth the wait.

Stripey

Fremantle is home to artist Wendy Binks who’s work we had seen in many places while travelling down the west coast of Western Australia. One of her popular animal characters is the Emu, cutely named ‘Stripey’ for the patterned feathers of the Emu chicks. In need of a new coffee mug, Stripey will now be joining us for coffee each day.

Little Creatures

These days every good town has its own brewery – a celebration of the region’s crops, water and talent and Freo is no exception playing host to the famous Little Creatures Brewery.

Clearly very popular judging by the number of people visiting today, at least those not spooked by all the Hallowe’en decorations though there were certainly more than a few spirits in the air.

Maritime Museum

America’s Cup victory for Australia came on the 26th of September 1983 with yacht Australia II after an epic battle with America’s Liberty. It was the first time in 132-years that America had lost to another country and back in Australia the close race had the nation on their knees even though it took place in the early hours. During the after race celebrations Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke famously said, “Any boss who sacks anyone for not turning up today is a bum!”

The win was attributed to a new keel design that sported a wing that remained hidden until the yacht was hoisted from the water following the triumphant win. And it was a feature that the losing American team launched an objection to but it was quickly overruled by the officials. Australia II and its controversial winged keel is now proudly displayed at the Fremantle Maritime Museum.

Never without a little controversy there is a background to the cup on display in the Maritime Museum. The cup was just a stock item created by Garrard of London, jewellers to the Royal Family. It was bought and then donated to the Royal Yacht Squadron in 1848. Then in 1851 the Royal Yacht Squadron presented the trophy to the winner of a race around the Isle of White, which was won by the schooner – America.

Following the win the cup was taken to the New York Yacht Club on Rhode Island and renamed the America’s Cup. There it remained until 1983 when Australia II beat Liberty. Or rather there it still remained – America never gave up the real cup. Instead Alan Bond, who bank-rolled Australia II, commissioned Garrard to produce a replica cup. Another replica was created in 2000 at the request of famed sailor Rolly Tasker for his Sailing Museum. This time, however, it was created by a New Zealand jeweller after Garrard refused to produce any more. This is the copy now on display at the Maritime Museum.

Historic Architecture

Fremantle Council have done a fantastic job in preserving the heritage of Fremantle. Any rebuilds or refurbishment of historic buildings must retain the original street frontage. The result is some of the best preserved, freshly painted and graffiti free buildings in Australia… with one very notable and very obvious exception – the Police Station on High Street, which it shares with the quite appropriately named NAB Bank.

There is plenty to see and do in Freo but make sure to finish with a coffee and cake along the Cappuccino Strip and watch the world pass by… and all the posers in their Ferraris, custom cars and Harley Davidsons.