Popularly known simply as ‘Freo’, the beachside city of Fremantle, situated 20KM southwest of Perth city centre, is a delightful coastal town full of character, charm and more than a little history.

The town is named after English Naval Captain Charles Howe Fremantle who claimed the West Coast of ‘New Holland’ for King George IV and established the first camp in 1829 following suspicions that the French may have been showing interest in the west of Australia. After discovery of considerable reserves of gold in Southern Cross, Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie, Freo became equally a prosperous port and town resulting in some of the impressive architecture that remains to this day.

We have been in Perth for the past week enjoying much that the city and its outlying regions has to offer. I have visited Perth several times previously but it is the first for Catherine and the first for both of us exploring Fremantle. And having a street known as the Cappuccino Strip we knew we were in the right place for a good coffee.

Fremantle Markets

A popular spot for art and crafts, food and entertainment, Fremantle Market should be on your list of places to visit. Fresh fruit and vegetable stalls sit at one end of the market with a huge variety on offer. Still run by the families of many of the Chinese Market gardeners that settled in Perth around the time of the gold rush in the late 1800’s, it is good to see the trade surviving the endless onslaught of the major supermarkets.

Being a little hungry we sighted Michel’s Crepe Suzette tucked into a narrow spot near the market entrance. And what a choice of fillings there were with menu boards plastered on all available wall space. Highly recommended, though a little slow on service, definitely worth the wait.

Stripey

Fremantle is home to artist Wendy Binks who’s work we had seen in many places while travelling down the west coast of Western Australia. One of her popular animal characters is the Emu, cutely named ‘Stripey’ for the patterned feathers of the Emu chicks. In need of a new coffee mug, Stripey will now be joining us for coffee each day.

Little Creatures

These days every good town has its own brewery – a celebration of the region’s crops, water and talent and Freo is no exception playing host to the famous Little Creatures Brewery.

Clearly very popular judging by the number of people visiting today, at least those not spooked by all the Hallowe’en decorations though there were certainly more than a few spirits in the air.

Maritime Museum

America’s Cup victory for Australia came on the 26th of September 1983 with yacht Australia II after an epic battle with America’s Liberty. It was the first time in 132-years that America had lost to another country and back in Australia the close race had the nation on their knees even though it took place in the early hours. During the after race celebrations Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke famously said, “Any boss who sacks anyone for not turning up today is a bum!”

The win was attributed to a new keel design that sported a wing that remained hidden until the yacht was hoisted from the water following the triumphant win. And it was a feature that the losing American team launched an objection to but it was quickly overruled by the officials. Australia II and its controversial winged keel is now proudly displayed at the Fremantle Maritime Museum.

Never without a little controversy there is a background to the cup on display in the Maritime Museum. The cup was just a stock item created by Garrard of London, jewellers to the Royal Family. It was bought and then donated to the Royal Yacht Squadron in 1848. Then in 1851 the Royal Yacht Squadron presented the trophy to the winner of a race around the Isle of White, which was won by the schooner – America.

Following the win the cup was taken to the New York Yacht Club on Rhode Island and renamed the America’s Cup. There it remained until 1983 when Australia II beat Liberty. Or rather there it still remained – America never gave up the real cup. Instead Alan Bond, who bank-rolled Australia II, commissioned Garrard to produce a replica cup. Another replica was created in 2000 at the request of famed sailor Rolly Tasker for his Sailing Museum. This time, however, it was created by a New Zealand jeweller after Garrard refused to produce any more. This is the copy now on display at the Maritime Museum.

Historic Architecture

Fremantle Council have done a fantastic job in preserving the heritage of Fremantle. Any rebuilds or refurbishment of historic buildings must retain the original street frontage. The result is some of the best preserved, freshly painted and graffiti free buildings in Australia… with one very notable and very obvious exception – the Police Station on High Street, which it shares with the quite appropriately named NAB Bank.

There is plenty to see and do in Freo but make sure to finish with a coffee and cake along the Cappuccino Strip and watch the world pass by… and all the posers in their Ferraris, custom cars and Harley Davidsons.