After a brief stay at Exmouth we have moved across the peninsula to our latest campsite in the wilderness of Cape Range National Park at a site known as Osprey. And what a place it is just 100-metres from the turquoise Indian Ocean.

The forecast for the next few days is clear and sunny but with a stiffening wind from the southeast it wasn’t looking too promising.

Our caravan site is spacious, level and surrounded by nothing but low-level mulga scrub and an attractive post and rail fence. There’s no way you’ll be overlooked here and everyone has a view of the sea. As we’re in a National Park (permit required) there is no power or water although, unusually, there are waste bins. So for the next three nights we’ll be self sufficient.

Ningaloo Reef Marine Park

The reason for our visit to Osprey is Ningaloo Reef – a World Heritage Site – which is absolutely teaming with sea life. It is the closest and largest reef system in Australia and just a short snorkel from the beach – no boat required. Famous for its giant Whale Sharks – the largest fish in the world – it is also home to Humpback Whales, Manta Rays and three species of Turtle that all nest here during the southern hemisphere’s summer months. 

We were too late in the season for the Whale Sharks but there are certainly plenty of Humpbacks right now breaching in deeper water just off the coast. In a week or so we’ll be heading further south to Coral Bay, also close to Ningaloo Reef, where we hope to be able to see the humpback whales at a closer range and to swim with the enormous Manta Rays.

Osprey Campsite

It was quite blustery as we settled into our new location following a later than normal arrival having had our caravan serviced at Exmouth in the afternoon. So we just had a quick explore of the area and a walk along the beach as the sun started to sink towards the ocean indicating it was about time for Happy Hour.

Overnight the wind picked-up considerably and by the early hours of the morning the van was starting to shake and the awning flapping loudly enough to keep us awake. There was no change by the morning so we strapped the awning to the fence rails in the hope of keeping everything in place.

Turquoise Bay

Catherine braved the wind for a snorkel in the appropriately named Turquoise Bay spotting a Green Turtle and many species of reef fish including Sargent Majors while I was happy to keep watch on the white sandy beach.

It’s a beautiful location with shallow water but a close eye needs to be kept on the northerly current, which provides the option to drift snorkel from one end of the bay to the other. The exit point of the drift is very close to a dangerous section of the beach and with the wind and current combined, today was probably not the best day for that option.

Osprey Bay

Our local bay looked like it would provide a safer place to spend the afternoon snorkelling along the shore but the weather had other ideas and the increasing wind was creating waves even in the warm shallow waters making it difficult just wading-in, which is always a challenge with fins.

After me falling backwards and being bombarded by waves we gave in and decided to try another day in the hope that the wind drops though the forecast appears to show otherwise.

But at least the strong wind was being taken advantage of by kite surfers in Sandy Bay just a short stroll from Osprey Bay.

Enough

By our second day the wind was getting the better of us. We put the awning away to save it being torn-off and chose to view the scenery from our caravan windows instead. With so much to see in the ocean it was very frustrating!

Again the wind shook the van overnight and by the morning there were noticeably fewer people around the campsite. Even a couple in the next site to us appeared to have given up, though not surprisingly, with their tent and spent the night sat in their car.

Western Australia is well known for windy conditions, especially at this time of year, and with the wind blowing off the sea and no trees to provide shelter, camping in tents is for the well grounded, so to speak.

Sadly by our last morning at Osprey the wind hadn’t eased and it was time for us to head back to Exmouth. It was disappointing but you cannot change the weather and we still have so much more to see.

Watch Out!!

On our drive into the National Park we didn’t get the chance to drop by the Milyering Discovery Centre but we had planned to visit on our way out knowing there was coffee available. Slowing well in advance of the turn-off, a large Euro Kangaroo suddenly decided to leap out of the scrub and jump right across the road only metres in front of us. I slammed the brakes on, which, with a caravan in tow, is not the most brisk of actions, but somehow managed to slow enough to allow the Roo to continue its daredevil lifestyle. Fortunately the two vehicles behind us must have seen what was happening and hit their brakes too. That was too close for comfort and could easily have spoiled the day for all of us.

Free of wind, Osprey would be the perfect beach-side wilderness location with its warm water, sea life and turquoise sea. Sadly it was just a bit too exposed during our visit to be as enjoyable as we had hoped.

Visitor Centres

For anyone visiting Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef Marine Park, two visitor centres are a must: Ningaloo Discovery Centre in Exmouth and Milyering Discovery Centre in Cape Range National Park. And while at Milyering, grab a coffee and cake from the Pirate Van.

For more information:

Cape Range National Park

Milyering Discovery Centre